Installing a new Intex AGP with saltwater chlorination.

[PoolDoc]

thanks.

[tigers75]

Well, it has officially been one week and we are totally pleased with how things in "pool chemical country" are concerned so far! We have crystal clear water, that is holding a steady chlorine level (4-5) as well as a steady ph (7.4). Granted the temps have been cooler last week, and very minimal usage due to the water temp still around 70 degrees. I am anxiously waiting for my K-2006 test kit, due to be delivered in another week. At that point I will make a full set of test results and use these as my base line for the rest of the summer and how to tackle any sudden water issues.
I have not added anything...I mean nothing for the last 4 days chemical wise. No bleach, borax, dichlor, nothing. I still have crystal clear water, with NO signs of any cloudy water or any green algae growth. I have run the filter pump for 6 hrs each night, and have yet to SWCG. According to my last salt test, I believe Iam at 2700ppm. I believe the Intex SWCG I have works best on 3000ppm? Once I see chlorine levels dip a little I will fire up the SWCG and maintain levels, AND if need be add any additional salt to allow the SWCG to work as efficiently as it can.

My curious question: is it possible for me to go 4-7 days without adding any chemicals (bleach or dichlor/borax) and still maintain stable CL and pH levels day after day? I feel that each night, testing the levels I will see some major divergence in numbers, which would result in making some sort of overnight adjustment. Can using the BBB method be this simple and efficient. I do totally expect that with warmer temps, and more usage of the pool, that numbers will definately fluctuate, but for now I am loving it! So easy.
As far as the SWCG is concerned, I plan on letting CL levels drop down to 2 or 3 and then start nightly use of it. Should I test salt levels again, and raise them now according to what the SWCG recommends, OR wait and see how the SWCG runs at its current level? This intex system, will let me know if salt levels are to low, therefore, I will have to shut it down and slowly dissolve in small amounts to make the machine happy. THoughts on this anyone??

[PoolDoc]

If you mean, can you go 7 days without adding anything, other than operating an SWCG, then the answer is yes.

If you mean, can you go 7 days without adding anything and without using an SWCG . . . the answer is, "Not without special prep" *or* using the HiC2 method" (CYA> 150 ppm; FC > 15 ppm 1x per week).

[tigers75]

Ok....our INtex 15'x48" metal frame has been up and running since Mother's day with no issues except, this New England weather hasn't made it the warmest,pool swimming temps yet this year! After using the 6-way test kit from Walmart, I have been able to stabilize the pH and CL each day to be within acceptable ranges, and we have NO sign of any algae growth and NO cloudy water issues! Yippy! I finally received my Taylor k-2006 kit yesterday and todays official numbers are as followed:
FC=3ppm
CC= 0.5
pH=7.5
Total Alkalinity=70ppm
Calcium Hardness=80ppm
CYA= 30ppm. I added test fluid until it reached the top of the testing tube which was 30ppm, yet I could still see the black dot. Very cloudy, but still visible.
I also tested the salt level, and it was 1960ppm. The INtex SWCG I am using likes at least 2500ppm, so I threw in more salt, and ran the pump 24 hrs dissolving it, and finally ended up with a salt level of 2490ppm. I will occasionally test and add salt as necessary depending on how much water we splash out of pool and if any more water needs to be added in the future.
Since Mothers Day I have only added 4 doses of dichlor/borax mixture, totally 3 cups. (1 dose=3/4 for 4450 gallons).
I continue to run the filter pump for 6 hrs nightly and the SWCG for 5 hrs nightly, and have found that pH and CL levels each mornings are right in range and good.

My questions at this point are:
1) Do I have to worry about that lower CYA level and the black dot test results? If I start to see chlorine burning off quicker with more frequent pool use and hotter sunny days (pool is mainly full sun exposure), do you recommend using a CYA chemical to up it a little? I guess I could use maybe 1/2 dose of dichlor/borax to up the CYA..keeping in mind that it will also up CL, so I probably won't have to run the SWCG for a small time frame to allow CL levels to stabilize?
2) Do I need to worry much about the Total alkalinity and/or calcium hardness levels with this seasonal setup?
3) How about the FC and CC test results? Any reason to be concerned or need for adjustment on either of these two?

Thanks again for everyones help on using the BBB method! Close friends are impressed with how crystal clear our pool has stayed and how much knowledge I have gained from this website and its forum questions and answers! As a matter of fact, last week while at a big box store, I overheard a young lady and her mother talking about buying all these chemicals that were on sale because they were last years supply. I interrupted them and told them to look into the BBB method and this website and about the ease of using all this info to better your pool with less harsh chemicals! She immediately started taking note of your website and its advice! Looking forward to a hot, sunny summer with clear water, and an enjoyable AG pool!!!

[PoolDoc]

1. Your CYA is low, for use with an SWCG. Add some stabilizer . . . or use some dichlor. Sams Club has inexpensive undiluted dichlor: http://pool9.net/sams-dichlor24/

2. Only worry about calcium if it's too HIGH (> 300 ppm). You can ignore it. Only worry about TA if it's too high (>160 ppm) OR if you are having trouble with the pH level wandering all over the place.

3. Normally, with the FAS-DPD test, you shouldn't be concerned with a 1 drop CC reading (0.5 ppm with 10ml sample, 0.2 ppm with a 25 ml sample). If you continue to see a 0.5 ppm CC, you can run a test with a 25 ml sample, and see if it's just a '1 drop' error, or if you really do have 0.4 or 0.6 ppm CC.

Even then, on outdoor pools CC levels quickly disappear if you maintain chlorine levels -- and have some sunshine.

[PoolDoc]

Oh, and thanks for the promotion!

[Watermom]

Oh, and thanks for the promotion!

Of course, that means you will probably not be the pool store's favorite customer!

Your SWCG manual should give the recommended CYA level for that particular unit.

[tigers75]

Hello folk, just looking to touch base with some test numbers to make sure Iam still on course. Our pool has been up and filled since Mother's Day, and we have had NO issues at all, thanks to everyones advice and the help on this site! Thanks a million! Our pool get pretty much direct sunlight from about 10am til 6pm daily. Our temp is up to about 78 degrees, and the whole family (and neighbors) are enjoying it! Nothing like walking into your backyard to cool off!
*I run the pump/filter nightly from 6-8 hours, depending on that days usage, or if alot of debris has blown into pool.
*I run the SWCG anywhere from 5-7 hours night also, depending on on CL numbers and that days usage.
*I usually only test for CL and pH levels daily, and then every 10-14 days run the full Taylor kit tests.

Using the Taylor kit my numbers this am are as followed:
FC=4
CC=0.2
ph=7.5
Alkalinity=70
Calcium Hardness=80
CYA=40
salt=2750ppm

I only run pump and SWCG nightly to maintain my CL levels. After a weekend or a couple of days of heavy usage, or if CL drops rapidly, I will pick a night--skip SWCG usage, and add a dose of dichlor/borax to bump up levels by morning. I have only had to do that once.
Any advice or recommendations on anything based on these numbers? Like I said, we have a totally clear pool which holds daily CL and ph levels really good.
Thanks in advance!
BTW...I emailed off some photos of our pools build process from start to finish, yet I can't find them anywhere?