Using well water and historic problems with mustard algea

[PoolDoc]

Q1: Is your well water metal contaminated? (Sandstone or shale well water is usually a problem; limestone well water is usually perfect pool water).

Q2: Are you still planning to use copper?

Q3: Do you currently have algae? What is the current condition of your pool water?

+ It's best -- and cheapest -- to use muriatic acid to lower pH. The only issue is safety. Please read http://pool9.net/ma

+ Dichlor and trichlor are inherently stabilized. Cal hypo and sodium hypo are unstabilized. Cal hypo tablets exist, but their availability is spotty. Sodium hypochlorite is available as 8% household bleach or as 10 - 15% pool store 'liquid chlorine'. But bleach is perishable, and doesn't maintain it's strength when stored at summer time temps.

+ You need to know your CYA level. Read http://pool9.net/cl-cya

+ For reasons no one seems to know, some pools are especially prone to mustard algae. For MOST pools, simply maintaining adequate chlorine (with respect to the CYA level) does the trick. But if you actually have a pool that's prone to mustard algae, it may be worthwhile to lower, and then manage, your phosphate level. High borates (>60 ppm) reduce the susceptibility to algae, but may not help with mustard algae. Very low phosphates (<125 ppB) makes controlling mustard algae easier, but phosphates can enter the pool through fill water or through a variety of pool chemicals.

. . . membership upgraded.

[PoolDoc]

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