We currently have a "Pool Shop" basic 5 test kit that measures PH up to 8.2. We are very near or at max, which means we may be over the max. I assume CYA is zero because we used bleach to chlorinate last year, but this kit doesn't test that. My wife is the chemist (she teaches high school chemestry and has a masters in biology) so she took care of the chemicals and I did the dirty work.
We had big problems last year because we had no clue about CYA stabilizer and we spent a TON of money on floculant and algaecides (HTH linear quat I think). We also had no clue that better cartridges were available for the crappy little pump supplied with the pool. We have upgraded to an Intex 14" sand filter. I strongly recommend replacing the Intex cartridge unit with the Intex 1600 gpm (.5 hp pump) 14" sand filter (model # SF80110) for pools 3000 to 14000 gallons. We got the 2150 gph (.75 hp) unit and it needs to be throttled for our pool. Our pool looks better now than it did for much of last summer and we are having to clean up a "swamp" because water restrictions prohibit drain and refill. I tested the water this afternoon just before sundown. We will be using the BBB method.
All that said,
TC 0
TA 30
pH 8+
Now the questions.
1. With a 4500 gallon pool, what product should I use to lower the pH? I'd rather not have to store (or dispose of) muriatic acid, but if that's the best way, maybe.
2. How much should I use and how often?
3. is there any reason to go lower than 7.8?
4. What chlorine level should I have in the evening after adding household bleach?
5. Should I add CYA directly and continue to use bleach or use dichlor to get the CYA levels up slowly and then switch back to bleach?
6. Is it reasonable to expect the Taylor 2006A to last the whole summer without ordering refills?
7. Since we are cleaning a swamp, and planning on at least one week long trip,,, polyquat?
8. What kind of pre-vacation prep should be done to minimize heartache?
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