100,000 gal pool

[PoolDoc]

1. Your CYA is VERY high, so you don't want to add more. That fact rules out use of trichlor (pucks) and dichlor (granules).

2. Cal hypo can help the water clear faster, with sand filters. It's not going to help as much with a DE filter, unless you are trying to remove metals. But it can still be used OK.

3. Use up your bleach, first. It's perishable. You want to reach FC levels of 20 ppm or HIGHER.

4. Cal hypo needs to be added DIRECTLY to the skimmer, but FIRST you have to make sure there are no devices or feeders ANYWHERE between the skimmer and the filter. Cal hypo and dichlor / trichlor react badly if they come into direct contact with each other.

5. Once you began using cal hypo, you need to let your pH 'float' unless the level exceeds 8.0. If you add via the skimmer, and let the pH float, your TA and CH levels will not get too high. If you add cal hypo directly to the pool OR try to adjust the pH down, your TA and CH levels WILL get too high, from the cal hypo.

6. Please complete the form here: http://pool9.net/pf-chart/ with the most current info you have on your pool's dimensions and equipment.

[4dks1]

The pressure seems to rise quickly resulting in lots of backwashing. Is that normal when you're trying to get clear pool water?


FC .2
CC 1.2
pH 7.4
TA 150
CH 300
CYA unable to determine

++after grid & manifold replacements. 25lbs of Cal hypo added.
DE filter

[PoolDoc]

I checked your entry in the equipment spread sheet. Is your pool really 260 inches (21.7') by 260 inches square? That's what you entered.

Your chlorine is too low -- you will get algae quickly, like that.

Why couldn't you determine your CYA? Did the mixture remain clear? If so, that means your CYA = 0 ppm.

[4dks1]

Pool length 48'1". Width 40'2". 8' deep down to 5'. Shallow end 3'.

Cya must be 0 then. Mixture remained clear.

Adding liquid chlorine 10-12% every other day. 6-12gals but FC still very low.

[PoolDoc]

1. Go to Sams Club and buy (2) 50# buckets of dichlor (~$240). Get a trial membership if you need to do so. Given the amount of dichlor you'll need, a Sams membership will be worth it for you. Together, those will add about 80 ppm of chlorine, and about 70 ppm of stabilizer to your pool.

2. Set your pump timer to run 24/7. Your pump and filter are too small for your pool, and you'll need to run more to make up. Once you've got everything straight, you may be able to switch to low speed.

Get the dichlor from Sams, ASAP. But if you can't do so immediately, add nightly doses of 6 pounds of cal hypo OR 5 gallons of PLAIN 8% household bleach. Do this EVERY evening. Add the doses ONLY in the late evening. If -- and only if -- your pool is crystal clear and algae free, you can cut those doses in 1/2.

Each time the pool is used by a swimmer, add 1 pound or 1 gallon of bleach during or immediately after their swim.

I'm reluctant to encourage you to use "liquid chlorine" (commercial bleach). It's hot summer, and bleach loses strength rapidly, unless it's stored cool (75 degrees or LESS). If you are buying boxed pool bleach, odds are you are NOT getting 10% bleach.

You can compare, though. Add 4 gallons of 10% bleach; test chlorine levels 2 hours later. Tomorrow, add 5 gallons of Walmart 8% bleach, test chlorine 2 hours later. If your 10% bleach is REALLY 10%, you'll see similar FC levels from both.

But maybe not. Your CC level above (1.2 ppm) suggests you've still got goo in the water. If so, to compare the bleach and the LC, you'll need to go for 4 consecutive nights: bleach, LC, LC, bleach, and then average the results for both the bleach and the LC before comparing. Make SURE you add all doses at about the same time each day, LATE in the day.

[4dks1]

I have the 100# of dichlor from Sam's to put in tonight.

Thank you.

[PoolDoc]

You're welcome.

Please note that I was NOT suggesting that you add it all at once; rather that 100# of dichlor was an appropriate quantity for your pool, and will allow you to raise your stabilizer in the process of chlorinating.