The tool kit came early, so here's the readings before the dichlor was put in.
PH 8.0
TA 160ppm
CH 440
CYA 40ppm
FC 2
CC 2
Thank you!
The tool kit came early, so here's the readings before the dichlor was put in.
PH 8.0
TA 160ppm
CH 440
CYA 40ppm
FC 2
CC 2
Thank you!
I'm a little leery to comment on such a big pool, but generally what these numbers mean is:
pH of 8.0 is too high and you should add Muriatic Acid to bring it down. I'd suggest to 7.0 or 7.1 because of the high TA level.
TA is 160 which for a concrete pool with a high pH and high CH level is too high. Therefore I'd suggest our ratcheting down method of lowering TA. Lower pH with acid which lowers TA as well, aerate to raise pH without re-raising TA. Repeat until TA is between 80 and 120.
CH is a bit too high -- 400 is generally the recommended upper limit for concrete pools. But with a few backwashes it will come down. Do NOT use Cal-Hypo anymore or add calcium since CH is 440.
CYA is generally fine at 40. FC should be maintained at 3-6ppm, shock at 15ppm
FC: too low
CC: too high.
Ben will give you better and more detailed recommendations and make any corrections he deems appropriate.
Carl
The fact that you have CC=2.0 is not good.
You need add muriatic acid till the pH comes down. Read http://pool9.net/ma so you can handle it correctly and then add acid, a gallon at a time. Make sure the pump is on while you add the acid, and for at least 2 hours after. Continue to dose with gallon doses till the pH is 7.8 or below.
For a 100K gallon pool, with CC=2, dose with the dichlor at the rate of 1/2 gallon (about 5 pounds) at a time.
?'s:
1. What does the water look like? (clear/cloudy/opaque; blue/gray/greenish/dark green; odorless/chlorine smell/swamp smell
2. Are you running your pump 24/7?
3. Have you opened and cleaned the filter this season?
4. Can you purchase 100# drums of calcium hypochlorite?
Please explain these dimension:
260" = 21' 8"Size 260"x260"x272" pool 96" spa
272" = 22' 8"
5. Are you saying your pool is a 22' cubic hole in the ground?
PoolDoc / Ben
This is why I said Ben is better with such giant pools than me. I'd never think to add Cal-Hypo to a pool with Calcium Hardness at 440ppm.
Carl
Hi, this morning the pool is light green & milky. The 100# dichlor was scattered in before I got this post. 1 gal of muriatic acid was added last night. This is the lightest green the pool has been since last September!
Is there a way I could post a picture of the pool? It's very irregularly shaped.
Yes, the pump is running 24/7. The filter has been cleaned a number of times. It was back washed yesterday.
I will test the water again this evening & send the results.
You can either use Picasa, Flickr, etc. to post your pic or email them to poolforum@gmail.com and include the thread number 116949.
The pool smells like the ocean.
I emailed the pictures.
FC .6ppm
CC 1.2ppm
pH below 7.0
TA 80
CH 500ppm
CYA-I don't know if this is correct, I will retest.
Definitely, do not add either baking soda or washing soda, with those values. If you raise the pH with washing soda (soda ash, sodium carbonate, pH Up, etc.) while having a CH=500, you're likely to precipitate calcium carbonate and make your pool look like milk.
You *can* use cal hypo, but add it via the skimmer after making SURE -- 100% sure -- that there is no feeder or gizmo anywhere between the skimmer and the filter. Also do NOT add CYA immediately after adding cal hypo, and do not add cal hypo within 3 days of adding CYA to the skimmer.
BUT . . . raise your pH, ASAP. You could use caustic soda, but that stuff is nasty to work with and usually expensive for consumers. Instead, go to Walmart and clean them out (up to 20 boxes): http://pool9.net/borax/ (Actual box is now mostly white, not green.)
Add boxes, 5 at a time, to your skimmer. Do it slowly, with the skimmer running. Do NOT choke the skimmer: borax can 'meld' together and form a solid, hard-to-dissolve, lump in your pipes if you do. Wait 4 hours to retest your pH.
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