1. Regardless of the type of refinishing you do, the new surface is only as good as the bond to what it's touching. It's it's bonded to old flaking paint, then it will be a crummy refinish, no matter what material you use. Thus . . .
2. The #1 factor in the quality of ANY refinish job is surface prep!
3. Epoxy is absolutely the most durable paint, but it will NOT bond securely to old rubber based paint. It's also finicky to apply (but so are some of the other surface finishes!)
4. If you get that far along, and do have rubber base paint to remove, this is the tool:
It's sort of funny -- the Aurand grinder is an un-modernized (except for the grounded cord) WWII tool, originally used for paint stripping on naval ships. I actually have one I bought 25 years ago, when I had to remove the paint in a 45 x 75 commercial pool. You can't grind or blast blistered rubber base paint off with much of anything else because it's, well, rubber. It's definitely a one-trick tool, but it's very, very good at that trick. I'd be happy to sell you mine, at 1/2 of list price, since I'll never use it again . . . but ONLY if you really need it.
As far as paint and prep go, read the tech bulletins here: http://www.kelleytech.com/olympic/ol...-bulletins.asp
It's good info, that you need to know, whether you use Kelley's Olympic brand, or something else.
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