New Thread with my results of first test

[Tom.B]

Ok... I know I should just look at the results and read what they mean instead of the shortcut of just posting them here, but I cant't resist. Besides, y'all ask for them when I got them.

This is my first time with the Rockstar Test Kit, so let's see how I did...

FC 2.8
CC 0.4
pH 7.4
TA 70
CH 250 (this one I might have lost count of my drops)
CYA 40

Ther ya' have it. Yay me!

[PoolDoc]

Looks good.

The CC=0.4 may be a testing error, or it may mean you need to keep the chlorine a bit higher for the next few days.

TA=70 is a bit low, if you have a concrete pool, but fine otherwise.

[Tom.B]

Correction: Cal Hard is 370

I went back and retested :-)

I will also do a Phosphate test tomorrow.

I will start the search for a bleach supplier ASAP. I got nuttin' at the house right now.

[PoolDoc]

Unless you have a Taylor phosphate kit (preferred) or the Aqua-Chek . . . don't bother. The other kits I checked aren't accurate enough to be useful, unless your goal is simply to sell phosphate remover!

Taylor Technologies K-1106 Phosphate test kit
Hach Company 562227 Phosphate Test Kit (Aqua-Check)

[Tom.B]

Unless you have a Taylor phosphate kit (preferred) or the Aqua-Chek . . . don't bother. [/URL][/B][/INDENT]

Of COURSE I do... Would I disappoint you?

QQ-Can I still use pool store chlorine until I find a good source for bleach? At this stage, it's just more convenient.

[PoolDoc]

QQ-Can I still use pool store chlorine until I find a good source for bleach? At this stage, it's just more convenient.

Pool store bleach, purchased this year, should be fine -- heat cooks of bleach, but it hasn't gotten hot, yet. Still, Walmart bleach is likely to be fresher.

Pool store tablets (trichlor) may or may not be OK -- read the label. Borates are a way to dilute the tablets so the store can make more $$, but they won't cause any pool problems at all. Copper is altogether different -- do not buy any chlorine with copper listed.

Pool store dichlor should be avoided -- almost all of it is now badly diluted, and some of the chemicals used WILL cause problems.

[BigDave]

FC 2.8
CC 0.4
...Yay me!

Yay you indeed. One thought, testing chlorine with a 10ml sample instead of 25ml will more than double the tests you get from your reagents.

[CarlD]

Yay you indeed. One thought, testing chlorine with a 10ml sample instead of 25ml will more than double the tests you get from your reagents.

BigDave has it right. I saw that too. Use the 10ml setting for FC and CC instead of 25ml. There's NO need to test to .2 since .5 is easily good enough--and what most of us use for many, many years at a time.

[Tom.B]

Howdy Y'all,

It's been a while since my last post and I now seem to at least have a semi-grasp on what's going on. I can't thank you enuff for helping me.

Currently, I am still using Leslie's Powder Plus (75%), Chlor-Brite (stabilized 55%) and 3": tabs by adding a one-pound bag every second or third evening. It's still easier for me to still buy from them, and compared to how much money I have given them over the past 5-10 years (many hundreds per week) I feel like it's still better for me at this stage. However, I am still trying to figure out terms like dichlor, trichlor, and hydtroflatulants ;-) to try and "own" my water chemistry. Still, my previous algae problem has yet to return and we are currently swimming in 75-degre water in NC. YAY!!!


Here is where my chemistry currently lies:

FC-4.5
CC-1
TA-7.4
CH-390
CYA-33
Phos-125

I guess if I had any question it would be about the combined chlorine. Should it be at, or near, zero all the time? Mine seems to stay around 0-1.5.

I guess I thought of another one too: Should I try and bring the Stabilizer up some, or just let the Chlor-Brite and tabs sneak it up slowly over the summer?

[BigDave]

I don't think the TA reading looks right, is it 74? Is the pH 7.4? If so, what's the TA?
Power Powder Plus is Calcium Hypochlorite. With a Calcium Hardness of 390 (up 20 in a month), it's probably time to stop using Cal-Hypo. Have you found a source for bleach?
I'm confused by the CYA reading, how do you get 33? Also confused because CYA dropped while using trichlor(tabs) and dichlor(Chlor-Brite) for a month. Probably want to review the CYA measurement.
The consistent CC seems odd. Should stay about 0, maybe one drop - explained by the accuracy of the test. Do you cover the pool? Maybe rushing through the FC test? Maybe CYA is a good bit higher than 33 and FC of 4.5 isn't enough?
I my experience, hydroflatus causes only giggles in well chlorinated pools - but usually only when it's observed.