Test Kit Instructions Are Hard To Read

[Tom.B]

I just got my test kit (2006C) in yesterday and started to read the directions prior to doing any testing. Since I turned 40 (almost 50 now), my eyes have gotten progressively worse. The light blue text on the white page is nearly impossible for me to read unless in bright sunlight. TBH, I think it's silly they even chose that color font in the first place. Nevertheless, my question is obviously: Is there an online version of the directions I can print in larger black text? I nosed around Taylor's site, but didn't really see anything.

(Yes... I'm getting old... GET OFF MY LAWN!!!) :-D

Tom-

[PoolDoc]

No, no online version that I recall. You can poke around for yourself at http://www.taylortechnologies.com/

But . . . a better choice might be to work through the Taylor HOW-TO videos. I've posted them on YouTube; all the links are here
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php/17157

Regardless, be careful of the instruction booklet; Taylor is promoting old-school (non-BBB) pool chemistry, and there's some pretty bad advice in there.

[Tom.B]

Regardless, be careful of the instruction booklet; Taylor is promoting old-school (non-BBB) pool chemistry, and there's some pretty bad advice in there.

Can you elaborate?

[PoolDoc]

Not so much, right now. I'd need to rewrite the booklet and that's not on my to-do list.

A couple of points though:

1. The various saturation indices are of very doubtful value, and are constantly misapplied. One consequence of trying to run a pool by S.I. is that you'll over-control, with constant unnecessary adjustments.

2. The booklet completely ignores the Chlorine/CYA relationship. 15 years ago, there were legitimate questions when I first published my ideas about that. But in 2014? 100,000's of users here and at TFP have validated my ideas, and Chem_Geek has published, in excruciating detail, the chemical basis for my (mostly) empirical ideas. This relationship is absolutely essential to managing an outdoor pool well. Read the "Best Guess" page, linked in my signature.

[Tom.B]

Yea... I have looked at the Best Guess table and need to do some reading here to figure out just WTH it's saying. The "Shock" and "+Shock+" fields have me stumped.

Thanks for the replies so far. Looking at the videos, I may just go ahead and try my first water test when I get home today. ;-)

[PoolDoc]

The "Shock" and "Shock+" levels are primarily algae-control or algae-killing levels, and are rarely needed if you don't let algae get a start.

There some pools that are -- for unknown reasons -- susceptible to chlorine-resistant mustard algae that may need those levels more routinely. Hopefully, your pool is not one of those.

[Smforte]

Tom,
I'm a new user of the same kit. Glad to know I'm not the only one that couldn't see or read that booklet. I cried when I first got the kit wondering what was I thinking. I was very intimidated. Now it's easy peazy and I love testing my water. I just stuffed the booklet in a drawer, followed the directions on the inside lid and read these forums every day. The folks on these forums are awesome and won't stir you wrong!

[Tom.B]

TI cried when I first got the kit...

I did too, but they were tears of joy. FINALLY! i will get a handle on my pool water problems! lol

[CarlD]

I don't know if this will help but it may:
Read the Taylor instructions for HOW to run the tests, and ignore their interpretation of the results.
1) FC and CC:
Fill tube to 10ml mark.
a) FC
Add one scoop of powder. Add another if it doesn't turn deep pink. Swirl to mix.
Add one drop from the brown bottle. Swirl. Each drop represents .5 ppm of Free Chlorine.
Keep adding drops one at a time till the water goes clear. The # of drops / 2 = your FC
b) CC (Combined Chloramine)
Add 5 drops of #3 bottle to same water. If it doesn't go pink, your CC = 0.
If it does, again add drops from brown bottle, one at a time and swirl until water clears.
CC = # drops / 2, again.
If you only add one drop and it goes clear, you don't have .5 ppm of CC, you have AT MOST .5 ppm of CC--and probably have less. Don't worry.
c) TC (Total Chlorine) = FC + CC

2) pH
a)Fill the tube to 44ml and add 5 drops from bottle #4, compare to color chart for pH level
I like to take my time with this, and make sure I have something white behind the tube and the chart.
b)Alternatively: If you have the K1000 OTO/pH kit (In my humble opinion the best simple OTO/pH kit you can get), you fill the pH (red) tube to the line and add 5 drops from bottle #14.
Color match as above.

3) TA-T/A Total Alkalinity.
Fill the tube to 25ml
Add 2 drops from the #7 bottle (chlorine neutralizer) Swirl
Add 5 drops from #8 Bottle (Dye) Swirl.
Add 1 drop at a time from #9 Bottle and swirl.
When water turns red, multiply # drops by 10. That's your T/A level.

4) CH Level Calcium Hardness.
Fill tube to 25 ml
Add 20 drops from bottle #10 Swirl.
Add 5 drops from bottle # 11 (dye) swirl.
Add 1 drop at a time from #12 Bottle and swirl.
When water turns blue, multiply # drops by 10. That's your CH level.

5) CYA-Stabilizer-Cyanuric/Isocyanuric Acid
Fill squeeze bottle half full with water, half full from Bottle #13. The amount of each is less important, just that they are 50/50.
Shake for 30 seconds, minimum.
Hold the tube with the dot at your waist, facing the sun.
Slowly add from the squeeze bottle until the dot disappears.
Read the CYA level on the tube. Remember: Halfway between 40 and 50 is NOT 45--it's a log scale.
IMPORTANT!
Repeat test by first pouring the water from the tube back into the squeeze bottle and then repeat the test.
You can do this as many times as it takes you.
Always do this test the same way so any changes are clear.

6) Acid and Base demand tests--don't bother with them.