Pump Priming Problem

[Scottish]

Fortunately, I happen to be a licensed plumber. I can do all of what you posted except the check valve,which is the most important,I'm sure.The suction line travels 4 feet before it goes into concrete.

[PoolDoc]

4 ft of 3" pipe will give you a water lift of about 1.5 gallons.

Install that check valve -- it needs to be a good one that's as close to bubble tight as possible -- as far from the pump as possible. Since you can't get close to the pool, you'll have to prime by cycling several times. You should be able to replace air with water in about 3' of pipe upstream of the check valve with each cycle. Basically, you'll (a) fill, (b) close the pump lid, (c) run the pump till you have air in the basket, (d) repeat.

Once you have it primed, it should remained primed with the pump off for a greater or lesser period, depending on how 'tight' the check valve is. If you also install a 3" valve close to the pump, you'll turn your current mess into a serviceable setup. The check valve will retain prime till air gets into the system, but when you open the system, you can keep prime by closing the suction valve before you do. Links below for appropriate gear.

Jandy 7307 Large Straight 2-1/2-Inch to 3-Inch Pool/Spa Check Valve
Banjo V300FP Polypropylene Ball Valve, Three Piece, Full Port, 3" NPT Female

The Banjo valve should remain easy to turn, with Teflon seals and a polypro ball. If you like, you can install the valve immediately upstream of the check valve. Since it's a full union valve, with SS bolts, you can fully service it, by buying a new valve, unbolting the old one, and slipping in the valve body from the new valve.

[PoolDoc]

Forgot -- here's the Jandy info:

http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/Pro...eck-Valve.aspx
http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/~/m...SA/SA5250.ashx

and specs: