Changing water may not hurt . . . but it's not going to solve your problem either.
The FIRST step is to get a good test kit -- and there's really only the one -- and start testing. If budget's not a problem, I'd recommend going with the K2006C, which has 2oz test bottles, instead of 3/4 oz: people tend to test a lot, while they're learning. Send us test results as soon as you have them.
Regarding phosphates, you need to get the Taylor kit for that, too. It's rather a pain to work with, but of all the ones I tested, it was the only one that was semi-reliable. Dealers are interested in selling stuff, not in accurate testing. There *are* some pool dealers out there, doing accurate testing, but they are a minority. And the only way to ID those is to have tested accurately yourself.
There's another factor to consider: dealers are NOTORIOUS for selling phosphate removers at the SAME TIME that they sell you phosphate increasers (stain/scale agents). If you want to manage phosphates, you have to manage both the levels IN your pool, and the levels ENTERING your pool, via pool store chemicals AND fill water. I wouldn't recommend that, at least not yet.
Instead, focus on (a) accurate testing to determine what the status of your pool is, and (b) consistent appropriate chlorination to levels corresponding to your CYA level. With green algae, odds are that your problem will be solved as soon as you do this routinely. (And you'll spend far less than $1,000 on chemicals for the season!)

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