The K2006 test kit arrived and the results are:
FC - 11.5
CC - .5
PH 7.6
TA 150
CH - 280
CYA -100+ - the black dot disappears at the top of the letters CYA on the tester.
The K2006 test kit arrived and the results are:
FC - 11.5
CC - .5
PH 7.6
TA 150
CH - 280
CYA -100+ - the black dot disappears at the top of the letters CYA on the tester.
Sorry for the slow answer.
With FC > 11 ppm, you may have regained control of your pool. If not, do this:
1. Retest your CYA, using a 50:50 dilution of pool water with tap water. Multiply the results x2 for your actual CYA level
2. Read the Best Guess page, linked in my signature, or found here: http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/best...ine-chart.html
3. Adjust your chlorine level upward to an appropriate level.
4. Stop using stabilized chlorine (trichlor or dichlor) and use only bleach. with CH = 280, you probably don't want to use calcium hypochlorite either, though there is a way to do so IF (a) you have a sand filter, (b) a working skimmer, and (c) can make SURE that any chlorine feeder located upstream of the filter is EMPTY.
PoolDoc / Ben
Thank you Ben. The pool looks a lot better and I'm not seeing any more algae.
I retested the CYA as recommended and its 160.
I have more questions about stains/calcium build up on the floor and doing a partial drain to drain reduce cya and CH.
Can I ask on this thread or should I start a new one?
Thanks again!
Steve
Last edited by PoolDoc; 11-01-2013 at 05:04 PM. Reason: merge related post info
+ Stains should be a separate thread.
+ Your CH level is not necessarily a problem; don't drain because of that.
+ Your high CYA is not necessarily a problem; it can actually make winter maintenance easier. Once your pool is algae free, you'll may be able to add chlorine just 1x per month.
PoolDoc / Ben
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