If you are going to keep your pool open -- or covered -- over the winter or late fall, you'll need to get a K2006 test kit, and start testing. The SS recipe works, because it starts with known non-pool water. That is, no CYA, no additives, etc. But it assumes a restart after 3 months or so. Go past that, and you'll have to monitor CYA levels, at a minimum.
Dust blowing into a pool can, apparently, be an issue. In some areas it seems to have enough iron or phosphates to cause problems. This is not something I have any experience with, having always lived in the South.
Here are the points I'd recommend you consider:
1. Get a K2006 and learn to use it. (link in my blue signature block)
2. While the pool is still being used by swimmers, make sure it is exposed to full sun for an hour or more, several times a week. UV + chlorine breaks down swimmer wastes cleanly; chlorine alone does not. The pool needs to be uncovered some hours AFTER swimmers have used it, since some of the by-products are unpleasant gases that remain trapped if the cover is on continuously.
3. If you don't already have them, get the Unicel or Filbur cartridges linked on the SS recipe page. They will help with the dust, and with swimmer debris. Clean them correctly to maintain their function.
4. When you are ready to close, keep the chlorine high and the pool uncovered for several days AFTER the last swimmer. This will allow all the swimmer wastes and other chlorine demand to be removed BEFORE you cover. Then cover the pool.
5. Do NOT put a chlorine floater under the cover; do NOT put tabs on the pool bottom. Instead, pour a little bleach in the pool every so often.
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