1. Use plain 8.25% household bleach to maintain your pool while the pump is off. Otherwise, you'll end up with a green swamp. Get a local OTO kit (yellow / red drops) and maintain a DARK yellow to ORANGE chlorine level. (Higher than the test block shows.)
2. Read the Best Guess page, linked in my blue signature block, to understand more.
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If you don't understand the instructions below . . . you don't know enough to do your own repairs. Call a service guy. If you make a mistake in following the instructions below,
you could die!
I have encountered a great deal of exceedingly dangerous DIY wiring over the years, and was nearly killed by some wiring on a 5HP commercial pump, wiring that had been rigged by a Southern Railways (now, Norfolk-Southern, I think) signal engineer! Bad pump wiring and repairs do not make me feel warm and fuzzy.
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3. Check and see if the impeller turns freely. If it does not, check to see if it's jammed with debris.
4. Switch the motor on and test the voltage to the motor - make sure it's not high or low. Where to check it, depends on how it's connected.
If the impeller is free, and the voltage correct, but the pump is still not running, you may want to replace it. It's not uncommon for pumps to fail after 12 years -- and weathering does as much damage as running. At best, you're going to be patching an OLD pump.
5. If the pump does turn freely, and the voltage is correct, and you want to go further, check the motor for a capacitor or switch or both. Discharge the capacitor (if any) and test it with your ohm meter. Check the switch (at the back of the motor, if any) for free operation. Verify that the contacts are not overly worn or burned.
Test the windings with the ohm meter -- values of 3 - 10 ohms would be normal. Zero indicates a shorted winding, infinity indicates an opening winding.
Capacitors and switches can be replaced, but it's not worthwhile to rewind a motor like that.
Good luck!
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