Arg. I already put in one quart of that Bioguard algaecide. Is it just useless or have I done something harmful?
Ran quick to Leslie's and got a polyquat 60%. Off to catch my plane!
Arg. I already put in one quart of that Bioguard algaecide. Is it just useless or have I done something harmful?
Ran quick to Leslie's and got a polyquat 60%. Off to catch my plane!
Last edited by FormerBromineUser; 04-25-2014 at 04:36 PM.
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
Some algaecides cause foaming issues in pools.
It is generally best to not try and combine chemistry advice from a local pool store and from here. It will often conflict and you can end up with a mess in your pool. Best to pick one or the other to take the advice from. Hope that makes sense!![]()
Yes, it does make sense, but Dave and Ben said to go ahead with their products for today but the pool store did the old switcharoo on algaecides. At least I didn't use the copper one! I AM trusting the forum. Absolutely! Thanks!
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
My water is now clear and no longer brown-tinged! The pool store is done now with the "complimentary" chemicals. They had me add one more quart of Pool Magnet Plus and they say it's time to add: 25 lbs of chlorine (they did a chlorine demand test). The chemicals I have added to my new water are: 2/3G of MA, 4 quarts of Pool Magnet Plus, 1 quart of Inhibit Back-up (chemical composition on page 3) and 1 quart of 60% polyquat.
What I need to know is what YOU say I should do next. Also, I do plan on adding borates whenever you say it's time.
My numbers are:
pH 7.4 (7.3+)
TA 180 (Alex test says 180, Leslie's test says 150-160)
CH 100 (Alex test says Tot. Hardness 164, Leslie's test says CH 130)
Thanks!
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
Do *NOT* dump 25# of chlorine in there -- it will 'break' some, if not all of the HEDP, and could drop any metals out on your liner. Do *NOT* raise the pH (add borates) yet.
Have you used the polyquat? Can you get more? Can you get DE locally? Can you easily get calcium hypochlorite locally for a reasonable price (< $4/lb)?
(By the way, thanks for the comparison test results -- that's very helpful info for us. If you can, once you begin adding CYA, and do CYA testing, I'd love to see a comparison on those test results.)
PoolDoc / Ben
Thanks, Ben.
I used 32 oz of polyquat last Friday that I paid $30 for at Leslie's. In-The-Swim is about 25 minutes away in West Chicago, IL and they sell quarts of polyquat for $23.00. So yes, I can get more polyquat locally that is cheaper than Leslie's.
Home Depot has 25# bags of DE for $20.00. Should I get some and add 2 cups per day?
Calcium hypochlorite appears in lots of "bag-o'-shock" products. Is that what you mean? If so, I wouldn't know how to chose from one bag to the next. Is there a specific chemical composition that I should look for?
All I have on hand in terms of chemicals are a 50# bucket of 99% dichlor from Sam's Club and a few gallons of 12.5% bleach. I don't plan on adding CYA, borates, or anything else until you tell me to!
Randy
26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO
Bookmarks