Re: Bromine Chemisty Question
If you use a mostly opaque pool cover, then the loss of chlorine from sunlight is virtually eliminated and you can add chlorine a lot less frequently. That's what we have, a mostly opaque electric safety cover, so I only add chlorine twice a week. Even those with bubble-type covers usually don't have to add chlorine every day, but rather every other day. Nevertheless, adding chlorine every day (or two) is just a quick and easy task. If you want automation, then you can look at getting a saltwater chlorine generator or using The Liquidator or getting a peristaltic pump. I think the bigger issue for you in terms of maintenance will be the weight of chlorinating liquid or bleach you have to carry to maintain your larger 30,000 gallon pool. If it uses 2 ppm FC per day, then that's 3.4 gallons of 12.5% chlorinating liquid or around 31 pounds per week. With 8.25% bleach, it's around 43 pounds per week.
As for CH, pH and TA, you don't have to worry about these so much in a vinyl liner pool -- regardless of whether you use bromine or chlorine. It's only a problem if you water is hard (CH and/or TA very high) as that can cause scaling. With a vinyl liner, you don't need to worry about the CH if it's low. Once you get your TA to a typically lower level (usually around 80 ppm) where the pH is relatively stable, then you don't need to worry about it.
The only real "extra" chemistry with chlorine is the CYA level. The CC is hardly ever an issue and is almost always low -- mine is nearly always <= 0.2 ppm, the lowest measurable using a 25 ml water sample.
As for startup with a fresh water fill, I don't think it takes hourly maintenance. That is probably referring to new plaster where in the beginning the water chemistry changes quickly as the plaster cures, but for a fresh water fill in an existing pool you can balance everything in one shot and not need to stick around.
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