Hayward pump cutting out several times a day - is this normal?

[Tommy]

Thanks for your reply, MAS985. Hmmm...

Well, the pump & filter system is probably circa 1980 - or at least mid-80s.

I had the motor/impeller assembly apart a few weeks ago. I got the impeller to turn by hand; it seemed to turn freely. I carefully re-assembled it and did not notice any leaks under the sump.

Still and all, your suspicion about the bearings may be on the right track. Perhaps they should be replaced.

What I was mainly trying to figure out was whether the motor's cutting out a couple times/day was normal. You seemed to think not. Duly noted.

[PoolDoc]

Definitely not normal.

One other cause I've seen beside the ones Mark mentioned, is low voltage at the pump. You'd need to test voltage to the pump while the pump is running, and during the periods when it typically cuts out. In the cases I've seen, someone had added new equipment to a long wire run, resulting in a voltage drop when both the pump and the new equipment operated.

[Tommy]

Thanks Ben. Good thoughts & suggestions all.

In my case, no new electrical devices have been added to this 20A branch.
I kinda think Mark might have been onto it. What I failed to report was that when I opened the pool and first powered up the pump, the motor was "seized" (only gave a buzzing sound). It had never done this in the 8 years I've lived here. After several attempts, I decided to remove the pump/impeller assembly (as I mentioned). With fairly little trouble, I got the impeller to turn and it seemed to turn pretty easily. Put it back together and I thought (hoped) I was good to go.

However, in line with Mark's suspicion, the bearings may be headed South. My guess is that worn bearings - when they get pretty hot - may try to seize or add load to the motor.

[CarlD]

It could be the bearings are shot and need to be replaced. It's not an impossible job but inevitably, other things will break, probably the long screws that pass through the motor and are 6-10" long, and very thin.
A new motor will run you $200 to $300, but a new pump could be had for $400 to $550. I replaced my pump this year.

[Tommy]

Aaaahhh the good news keeps coming ...

[Tommy]

Just one more thought in my own defense:

When I removed the pump motor and got the impeller to turn freely, I energized it on a cinder block while it was still isolated. My ears did not hear bad bearings! And I know what bad bearings sound like.

Just sayin' ...

Meanwhile, I have since learned (thanks to wonderful YouTube) that the front & rear bearings are '6203', available via Amazon, etc. for a fraction of the cost of a new motor. All you need is a 3-arm bearing puller, a strap wrench (to grip the impeller), and some patience.

[Tommy]

I'm baaaaaaaaaaack!

I started this thread last year and described several symptoms. I can now say this: if in doubt as to whether you have bad motor bearings on a Hayward pump, wait a year. It's now quite obvious: my bearings are toast. I had to really work to (manually) get the impeller to rotate and the bearings sound awful! And the motor is running hot and all the rest.

So, given my motor: A.O. Smith UST1102 (Model No. C48K2N117A9; 1hp; 3450rpm), can anyone say FOR SURE what bearings to order?

I have heard "6203" (both ends), but when I went up on Amazon (for example), I see various 6203 flavors:

6203ZZ, 6203-2RS, 6203-2NSE, 6203RS, 62032NSENR, S6203-2RS, 6203, etc.

I suspect these may all be the same thing (size). Is the main thing the dimension spec: I.D. x O.D. x W (17mm X 40mm X 12mm) ??