1. Empty the chlorinator and give away the tabs -- all forms of auto-chlorinator chlorine contain high levels of stabilizer.
2. Get K2006 -- check! on the way. Read the Best Guess page, linked in my signature.
3. Get a cheap OTO/phenol red kit (yellow/red drops) locally.
4. Order some polyquat -- about $17/qt w/ no tax or shipping @ Amazon. See www.poolsolutions.com/polyquat.html Probably want to get 4 quarts. It will keep, so save what you don't need.
5. Bleach is NOT a problem for liner pools; if it was, 10,000's of BBB method users would have gotten white liners by now. This is a pool dealer myth. But Walmart bleach -- if you get the 8% stuff, it's probably quite a bit cheaper than pool store bleach (aka "liquid chlorine")
6. Look for calcium hypochlorite locally. If you find it, make SURE it's 65% or high CHLORINE, and has calcium hypochlorite listed as the ONLY ingredient. Tell us what price you find -- $'s for pounds.
7. Use bleach to raise your chlorine levels to the OTO *orange* level (15 - 25 ppm -- you DID read the Best Guess page, right?)
8. Swimming at FC=25 ppm when CYA = 100+ ppm is FINE for people, but can be hard on swimsuits. Wear old suits, unless your pool fence is high and not see-through. (Skin is VERY chlorine resistant)
9. Run your filter 24/7. Brush your pool every other day, once the FC => orange.
10. Do NOT add *any* algaecide, except polyquat. Use polyquat ONLY according to label recommendations, and ONLY until all the algae is gone.
11. PH testing will be unreliable at FC > 15 ppm, until you get the K2006. Even then, you need to read the pH within 15 seconds of adding the drops. If you wait, the result will be wrong.
12. Post K2006 results once you have them. When you test CYA, do NOT waste the test. Read, check, re-read, do it right the first time. There is only enough R0013 reagent for about 7 tests. Also, and this is IMPORTANT, for YOUR pool, do NOT test pool water for CYA. Instead, test a mixture of 1/2 pool water and 1/2 tap water. Multiple the results x2.
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