OK. We can fix that.
1. Understand that pool dealers have ZERO incentive to help you do chemistry right, because if they succeed in doing so, they will literally cut chem sales 75%, and bankrupt their business. I am speaking literally here, with no exaggeration whatever.
2. Pool dealers almost universally offer free testing using electronically read test strips. This works for them, because (a) strips are cheap, saving them money; (b) strips are quick, saving them labor; and (c) strips are inaccurate, resulting in GREATER chemical sales. The electronic readers create an illusion of accurate results (ie, FC = 1.06 ppm, instead of FC = 1 ppm) but are actually the LEAST accurate common method of pool testing. Strips are especially bad at testing stabilizer or cyanuric acid . . . and this is a critically important value.
3. Even though pool dealers are ripping you off, you need to remember (a) not all of them know enough about pool chemistry and testing to KNOW that they are ripping you off -- after all, the pool chemical companies are the ones who teach the dealers; (b) you *need* your dealer, at least occasionally for parts and other items, even if they DO know they are ripping you off. There are quite a few pool dealers out there who are very nice and very honest . . . but unfortunately, very ignorant about chemistry. They still sell parts you need, and chemicals you might occasionally need.
4. All dealers are taught to sell you chemicals you do not need, that will make caring for your pool MORE expensive and MORE difficult. In your case, the two most likely unneeded chemicals are "calcium increaser" and "phosphate remover".
5. Your first step is to get a good test kit, and learn to use it. There's no alternative. Pool testing accurate enough to be really useful is not available dependably from pool dealers anywhere in the USA!. Buy a K2006 from Amazon; if money is not tight, get the K2006C 2oz bottle version: it costs more but lasts much longer.
6. As soon as you have the kit, test your pool, and report the results back here. FC, pH, and stabilizer are the most important results.
7. Meanwhile, by a cheap OTO/phenol red DROPS (yellow / red drops) test kit locally, and use it. If your pH is NOT between 7 and 8, let us know -- you'll need to fix it pronto. Otherwise, keep your chlorine in the dark yellow range (more than 5 ppm). If you have algae, you'll need to get to the 15+ ppm range (orange).
8. For now -- since we don't know the condition of your pool -- use PLAIN household bleach, added in the evening, to chlorinate. On your pool, 4 gallons will add 10 - 15 ppm of chlorine, depending on which % you get, and how accurate your pool volume info is.
. . . That's it.
Good luck!
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