Hi Larry!
In the water, chlorine is chlorine. 1" tabs may well be Tri-chlor or Di-chlor. You can use them to start, but both add stabilizer and Tri-chlor is very acid. Stabilizer in the desired amount is a Good Thing, but too much can be a problem as can too little.
Your OTO test kit is fine for starting and for daily testing. The Br (Bromine) test is the same as the Chlorine test (though the scale is doubled) but since you don't have a Bromine pool you ignore it as if it's not there.
But to make your life easy, you'll need a proper test kit and, unfortunately, you cannot buy it at a pool store. We recommend the Taylor K-2006 or K-2006C kits (the "C" has larger supplies of the chemicals--reagents). Some of the other moderators, and PoolDoc have the link in their signature lines to the least expensive source on Amazon. That link also helps the owner pay for maintaining this site. If, for some reason you cannot get it, Leslie's on-line has the "Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit" which is the same thing as the Taylor (with the Taylor reagents in a Leslies box) but for a lot more money. It's the FAS-DPD test that's key. It's not the same as a DPD test (which pool stores will try to tell you). Still, even with your little pool, the $50-$70 will be your BEST investment, saving you VAST amounts of heart-break!
I started out with an Intex 15'x3' pool back in 2000 and made my mistakes with it. My FAS-DPD kit was the life-saver back then, and when I built my 40'x16' pool I was fully confident I could maintain the water because it's the same, just bigger. Three years with the Intex and it didn't owe me a dime!
You'll need to read up on pool care. It's not hard. It's not mystical. It's not complicated. But it does require daily care, just a little, but consistently.
The B-B-B idea, using Bleach, Borax (for pH) and Baking Soda (for total alkalinity) IS simple.
You'll learn that "suggested" levels by pool stores and on your HTH test kit are...irrelevant.
We're here to help, but you DO have to do the reading.
The two key things are chlorine, which keeps your water sanitary, and pH, which keeps your water neutral and not too acidic or alkaline.
The third thing is stabilizer, cyanuric or Isocyanuric acid, called CYA for short. CYA keeps your chlorine from being consumed by the sun's UV rays--but slows down how well the chlorine works.
Usually suggested CYA levels are between 30 and 50 ppm (parts per million) though there are reasons to have it lower (indoor pools should have zero) or higher (pools with salt-water chlorinators, for example).
Look for the "Best Guess" table here at the Pool Forum and at PoolSolutions.com (our sister site). It will tell you that when CYA is in the 30-50 range, your normal chlorine level should be between 3 and 6 ppm (3 being the "recommended level" on your test kit) and if you have to "shock" your pool (kill stuff in it) the level should be 15ppm.
As the CYA level increases, so does the necessary chlorine level. But don't worry...the CYA allows the maintenance level to be stable so you don't have to add more.
You WILL need to determine how many gallons your pool is...1 cubic foot is about 7.5 gallons--7.48 to be more precise.
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