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  1. #1
    Islandtime is offline Commercial pool users, operators, owners Islandtime 0
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    Default Re: Howdy! -- managing a commercial pool & spa

    This is my first big weekend and it appears to be successful so far. This morning the spa FC was 2.8 and the pool was 9+, so I tossed a puck into the spa at about 2 pm and later six pucks went into the pool. By experience I know that a puck results in FC 9+ initially for the spa and it doesn't drop below 1 in 24 hours and six pucks in the pool get FC 9.8 decreasing to around FC 5.

    I know this is "getting by" but we can't close down on Labor Day weekend.

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    Default Re: Howdy! -- managing a commercial pool & spa

    I understand that, and can accept it.

    But you'll need to get BOTH a K1000 (or an HTH 6-way) and a K2006C to manage those properly. If you've read the Best Guess page, you should have some idea why CYA levels are so critical. Order links for the kits can be found on the kit info page linked in my blue signature bar.

  3. #3
    Islandtime is offline Commercial pool users, operators, owners Islandtime 0
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    Default Re: Howdy! -- managing a commercial pool & spa

    First question..will my ColorQ be sufficient?

    The first day after a big weekend..

    Spa
    FC 10
    pH 6.8
    ALK 39
    CH 62
    CYA 14

    I dumped in approx 16oz sodium bicarbonate.

    I don't have any fears of recovering the spa. We just had a tremdous overload over the weekend with an outrageous splashout and refill. FC 10 is resulting from a puck; tomorrow I'll go back to bleach.

    The pool's bothering me.
    FC 6.75
    TC 7.52
    pH 7
    ALK 113
    CH 128
    CYA 125+

    I used approx 3 pounds generic dichlor shock. I believe we can either dump the pool or wait a couple of weeks and it'll be to cold to swim.
    My problem is that I say dump the pool. Even the pool store says dump the pool. But the trusted pool contractor says to wait it out and CYA will decline.

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    Default Re: Howdy! -- managing a commercial pool & spa

    + You need to switch to bleach. Period.
    + You need to maintain OTO DARK yellow (ie FC > 10 ppm)
    + You need to re-test your CYA using a 1:1 dilution with distilled water.
    + And, no, your ColorQ will not be sufficient, because it cannot measure chlorine levels above 10, which is something you have to do IF you want to run the pool well AND plan to have CYA levels above 40 ppm.
    + Your CYA levels *will* decline once the pool gets winter-slimed. It will NOT decline if you maintain a clear water chlorinated pool all winter. CYA is rapidly bio-degraded by a variety of bacteria that apparently typically make up a component of winter pool slime. The problem is, the end point of this process can be one of three things: nitrogen gas, nitrates (algae fertilizer), or ammonia. If it's ammonia, you will have a nightmare start-up next spring, unless you drain and refill.

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