Pump Ran Dry Now Motor Won't Start

[PoolDoc]

I was thinking it might present a problem for cooling/airflow, though.

Exactly.

The ideal solution is probably to raise the pump a bit - a split or partial 2" patio block is enough in most situations, AND to put a roof over the pump, but NOT sides.

[RandyM1911]

Great idea raising the pump up 2" or so. I will definitely do that at the end of the season since it means some plumbing modifications. Mine sits on a pad but it's only about an inch above the surrounding grade and the area is covered in that ground cloth that prevents weeds from growing up everywhere. I'm thinking since that ground cover doesn't drain very quickly, if it gets soaked, perhaps the water level in a very heavy downpour might be rising up to the level where the motor sits.

As far as the "doghouse" goes, I did say "roof." I may not know much but I do know that if the motor has vents it's going to need airflow... I wasn't planning on totally enclosing the motor but thanks for back-stopping me.

Would it be overkill to disconnect the motor and bring it inside during the winter months? Or would that just wreak havoc on all of the seals that keep the water out from between the pump and motor? I'm not looking to create more work for myself, just curious since our season is only about 4 months long here. I do remove the SWCG cell during the winter months so there's no chance of any water being left in it and having a freezing problem.

[PoolDoc]

Would it be overkill to disconnect the motor and bring it inside during the winter months? Or would that just wreak havoc on all of the seals that keep the water out from between the pump and motor? I'm not looking to create more work for myself, just curious since our season is only about 4 months long here.

I wouldn't remove the motor. But what is possible is to re-install the pump with 2 unions, and replace the electrical to the pump with a locking cord, using something like this:

L6-30 Extension Cord, 20 Foot - NEMA L6-30 Plug to L6-30 Connector, 30 Amps, 250V
Arlington LPCG50-1 Low-Profile Strain Relief Cord Connector, 1/2 Inch
American Terminal AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder

You'd have to cut the cord, and put the female end into the box, and attach the male end to the pump, using the strain relief connectors at both ends. You'd need to make sure that water didn't drip all over the plug & socket set. You'd also need to solder the wire ends, especially on the motor connections. Fine stranded wire will not maintain a good connection under those terminals, with all the vibration and such.

But, with the unions and the cord set, you could simply disconnect the entire pump and store it indoors.

[RandyM1911]

Hmmm, interesting idea. I would actually only need one union (which I plan to install anyway since I'm re-plumbing for a different motor height) because the pump outlet to the filter is plumbed with a piece of clear reinforced flexible hose attached with a hose clamp.

I'll have to think about the electrical connections and come up with a way to protect the coupling from the elements.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Did I say something about not wanting to create more work for myself...? D'oh!

R-

[PoolDoc]

Well, you don't have to do it all at once, if you don't want.