Pool Water Turned Green After Adding Shock

[PoolDoc]

I don't have a K2006 here -- is the sample bottle 7 ml + 7 ml, instead of 14 ml + 14 ml? If so, it's indeed a typo.

But the point is you dilute POOL water 1:2 with DISTILLED water, mix that, and test the mix, as if it was pool water.

THEN, after testing, you multiply the test result by 3.

I hope this is clear.

Two other points:

1. The CYA test is NOT a drop count test; you simply add sample till the dot disappears, and then read the result on the side of the container.
2. Other dilutions are possible. If you dilute 1:1 (half pool water, half distilled) you multiply by 2; if you dilute 1:3 (1/4 pool water; 3/4 distilled, you multiply by 4.

[Charlie_R]

K2006 is indeed 7mL + 7mL.

[tdoss]

I don't have a K2006 here -- is the sample bottle 7 ml + 7 ml, instead of 14 ml + 14 ml? If so, it's indeed a typo.

But the point is you dilute POOL water 1:2 with DISTILLED water, mix that, and test the mix, as if it was pool water.

THEN, after testing, you multiply the test result by 3.

I hope this is clear.

Two other points:

1. The CYA test is NOT a drop count test; you simply add sample till the dot disappears, and then read the result on the side of the container.
2. Other dilutions are possible. If you dilute 1:1 (half pool water, half distilled) you multiply by 2; if you dilute 1:3 (1/4 pool water; 3/4 distilled, you multiply by 4.

It makes perfect sense now. You're diluting it so I can get the reading somewhere on my test tube between 30 and 100 because mine is somewhere beyond 100. I like it...very smart fix. I'll do that and report back.

Sidenote: I replied to the email but never heard back...is there any way I qualify for an upgrade so I can reply without waiting for someone to approve?

[tdoss]

OK...this is where I'm at:

22ppm FC
.5 - 1ppm CC
7.2 PH

145-150 CYA (the test described above by pooldoc gave me a result that just passed the 50 line, going towards 40...so multiplying by 3...I'm very close to 150).

My pool is still incredibly green. I've never seen it like this. It doesn't appear to be sticking to the walls much but the water is so incredibly green that I can't see the bottom and I just can't tell if it's getting any better yet. I'm sure at some point...it will tip over a certain peak and all the green will be destroyed.

What should I focus on now with all of the numbers I've provided?

[PoolDoc]

Wow. This is the 2nd case like this, running right now. The first case didn't get good results till the chlorine levels exceeded 40 ppm, but they had lower CYA levels than you.

PLUS, you've got a concrete pool, so we don't need to worry about making a liner fade. OK, each gallon of 6% household bleach will add about 4.5 ppm to your pool (PF9 x 0.5lbs/Chlorine gas equiv per gallon of 6% bleach).

So, tomorrow evening (or tonight, if you can) add 11 gallons of plain 6% bleach (~50 ppm). If that doesn't have an effect, follow the next evening with 16 gallons. I wouldn't bother with K2006 chlorine testing -- you use up your FAS drops. Just test with OTO -- you should be dark orange after 30 seconds with OTO, AFTER you've added your doses. You might even get brownish, after the 2nd dose.

BUT . . . you need to KILL your algae, not wrestle with it!

And . . . if you are not already doing so, run your pump 24/7.

[tdoss]

Wow. This is the 2nd case like this, running right now. The first case didn't get good results till the chlorine levels exceeded 40 ppm, but they had lower CYA levels than you.

PLUS, you've got a concrete pool, so we don't need to worry about making a liner fade. OK, each gallon of 6% household bleach will add about 4.5 ppm to your pool (PF9 x 0.5lbs/Chlorine gas equiv per gallon of 6% bleach).

So, tomorrow evening (or tonight, if you can) add 11 gallons of plain 6% bleach (~50 ppm). If that doesn't have an effect, follow the next evening with 16 gallons. I wouldn't bother with K2006 chlorine testing -- you use up your FAS drops. Just test with OTO -- you should be dark orange after 30 seconds with OTO, AFTER you've added your doses. You might even get brownish, after the 2nd dose.

BUT . . . you need to KILL your algae, not wrestle with it!

And . . . if you are not already doing so, run your pump 24/7.

Sounds like a plan. I added 14 jugs of this bleach that I have (96oz each) in order to be equivalent to 11 gallons.

I'll test with OTO tomorrow sometime. Last test with it showed it to be a deep yellow so I'm sure it'll be orange tomorrow.

The filter is running 24/7 for last couple days and will continue.

I appreciate all your efforts in trying to get me squared away. This pool has my wife very depressed right now and getting it back to crystal clear will go a long way towards our household's happiness. Like they always say, "A happy wife equals a happy life."

[tdoss]

SUCCESS!!!

Well, at least a successful change in it's color. The pool has gone from a deep, dark green to a blue-green. It's not clear yet, but we're obviously on our way in the right direction.

I tested with my super kit and my old OTO kit just because I really want this pool to get back to balance.

Here are my results:

33.5 FC
1 CC
PH is 7.0-7.1 (I haven't put in any more Muriatic acid since the other day..I'm surprised to see this number go down from yesterday...should I add something to bump it up to 7.2?)

I also did the OTO test and found the deep yellow from yesterday has become a dark orange/almost red.

So...should I continue to put in bleach tonight or let it settle a bit?

------------------------------------------------------

Pretty soon, I believe we'll have this problem solved...when that happens, at what point is it OK for us to get in the pool?

I've added so much bleach this week that I'd be afraid for anyone to enter the pool.

[PoolDoc]

It's safe now. I just finished a new cut and paste sticky on the topic.

Ben

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+ Over the 15 years PoolSolutions and the PoolForum have been active, we've gradually accumulated evidence, and gained confidence, that concerns about swimming in high chlorine levels completely without foundation, and that the EPA's rule for chlorine bucket labels, of "no swimming till chlorine levels fall below 3 ppm", is simply floating in the air. But, it was not till this year, 2012, that we were able to put the last nail in that coffin.

It turns our that dermatologists have been using 50 - 100 ppm "bleach baths" (search Google for it!) to treat a variety of skin conditions and infections, in both adult and pediatric patients. This treatment is still an element of recommended dermatological practice. A 50 ppm chlorine level in a tub with NO stabilizer, is equivalent to a 150 ppm OR HIGHER chlorine level in a stabilized pool. In most home pools, CYA levels range from 20 - 100 ppm.

Two cautions however: bleach baths don't involve opening your eyes underwater. And, patients being treated with bleach baths don't wear swimsuits! People, generally are FAR more chlorine tolerant than swimwear, and human eyes are more senstive to chlorine, than the rest of your body.

So, while you can safely SWIM at 50 ppm even with CYA = 0 ppm, you wouldn't want to wear a swimsuit when you did, or open your eyes underwater. With CYA = 100 ppm, it's a different story. I'm currently operating a large commercial pool at CYA = 80 - 120 ppm, and FC = 15 - 30 ppm. There have been NO complaints or evidence of either irritation OR swimwear damage.