First time Startup of 24' AGP

[PoolDoc]

Everything you're doing is fine, though it's not necessary to have the chlorine that high, when the CYA < 20 ppm. Read the Best Guess page linked in my signature, so you understand what I mean.

[PaPoolNewB]

Thank you Ben,

I understand the Chart and that with such a low CYA the FC is a bit high, but I am in process of adding the Kem-Tech Dichlor(Chlorine Granules) to get the CYA up to the amount you suggested above. I have not added any Bleach at this point in addition. So Is the higher FC just a temporary by-product of getting the CYA in the pool or do you recommend I do something else at this point. I want to get the CYA in so I can switch to just Bleach eventually. Have not added any Borax or Baking Soda yet as well. I know I can purchase just Dichlor but already have the 22.5lb of the Kem-Tek so would prefer to use that if possible.

Originally you stated it would take 14lbs and about 7 days with the 2/3 AM and 1 1/3 PM dosage to get CYA up to 30PPM. I am midway through day 2 so nowhere near that point I would imagine with the CYA level. One last question to add to this, at these levels it is fine to start using the pool even though the CYA is still building correct?

I have read many articles and believe it is fine but at same time I do not want to hinder the CYA process by entering to soon.

Still a little confused about the PH and ALK at this point but am in process of trying to get a grip on it for when time comes.

Thanks,
Lou

[Watermom]

Your pH and alk are ok where they are but dichlor is very acidic, so keep an eye on the pH. If it drops below 7.2, you'll want to use some Borax to raise it some.

Looks like you are doing just fine.

[PoolDoc]

but I am in process of adding the Kem-Tech Dichlor(Chlorine Granules) to get the CYA up to the amount you suggested above.

It's fine to do so, but you don't have to follow that particular pace.

So Is the Higher FC just a temporary Bi-Product of getting the CYA in the pool or do you recommend I do something else at this point. I want to get the CYA in so I can switch to just Bleach eventually.

You're chlorinating and adding stabilizer at the same time; as long as you maintain adequate chlorine, and continue using the dichlor, your stabilizer will get where you're going. You can choose the pace, as long as you keep the chlorine high enough.

There's no particular advantage to switching to bleach, until your CYA is high enough to make that necessary.

Have not added any Borax or Baking Soda yet as well.

No need to, so long as your pH is between 7 and 8.

One last question to add to this, at these levels it is fine to start using the pool even though the CYA is still building correct?

By all means. As long as your chlorine is high enough when you start swimming, and as long as you add a dose each evening to clean up what's accumulated you SHOULD go ahead and use the pool. That's what it's for.

[PaPoolNewB]

Did my first "overnight" test to see how the Chlorine and PH were holding up. Only tested CL and PH both last night and this morning. Reading last night about an hour after I added 1 1/3 cups of the Kem-Tek Dichlor was:

FC - 5
CC - 0
PH - 7.4

This morning the readings before the sun came up and I added morning dose of 2/3 cup Kem-Tek Dichlor are:

FC - 4.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.4

So only lost .5ppm overnight which was unexpected. Thought with so little CYA in the new water would have lost more. I plan to test again in about an hour so I can see how much I am losing from the AM to the PM just to keep track. I do not plan on doing the CYA test until the reading from the Post PM and Pre AM dose are identical. Is that correct or should I be doing CYA test sooner ? Should I be running the full battery of tests(CL, PH, Alk, CH) each time or is just keeping an eye on CL and PH fine for now ?

I have set up a timer to the pump and am no longer running 24/7 at this point. Running pump 2.5 hours on and 3.5 hours off for a total of 10 hours a day. The Filter states that it has a 3750GPH rating so from what I read it should take less then 4 hours to turnover pool but you want to double that so at least 8 hours of run time. Once CYA is correct and other numbers are in line I plan to switch to 2 hours on 4 hours off schedule. Hopefully that will be ok, what are initial signs to look out for if not running pump enough ?

I do believe there is a Solar Cover in basement, not sure of the condition of it but I will pull it out today and take a look. What do I look for to know whether or not it is functional ? Has probably been down there for a few years unused as the home owner does not live here and was vacant for long time. Will check the condition of the bubbles and hose it off. Hopefully is able to be used, rather not have to buy another. From what I have read it is best used when outside temp is lower than pool temp and overnight to help prevent excessive heat loss. Have a pool thermometer on order so not sure pool temp currently but definitely is brisk.

Sorry for the multiple questions but I know you are all very busy and figured better to ask all at once then the back and forth all day. Thank you once again for the guidance. Everyone's help is greatly appreciated.

[PoolDoc]

So only lost .5ppm overnight which was unexpected. Thought with so little CYA in the new water would have lost more.

CYA protects chlorine from sunlight (UV photolysis) -- there's usually not a lot of sun at night , so low CYA does't affect OVERNIGHT chlorine loss, only daytime chlorine loss.

I plan to test again in about an hour so I can see how much I am losing from the AM to the PM just to keep track.

AM to PM testing detects loss to sunlight. There's no need to test TA, CH, CYA every time.

Once CYA is correct and other numbers are in line I plan to switch to 2 hours on 4 hours off schedule. Hopefully that will be ok, what are initial signs to look out for if not running pump enough ?

Cloudy water -- even though there's adequate chlorine.

I do believe there is a Solar Cover in basement, not sure of the condition of it but I will pull it out today and take a look. What do I look for to know whether or not it is functional ?

Brittle plastic -- you don't want 10,000 blue plastic flakes in the pool! And, clean it off before you put it in the pool!

[PaPoolNewB]

Well the Solar Cover is shot so that was a let down but least I knew what to look for. Would have been a mess if I placed it in the pool. Thanks Ben for the tip. So used the pool most of the day and did a CL and PH reading after finally got out. The FC dropped from 4.5 in the AM reading to a 2.0. PH remained the same and still 0 CC. Is that a normal amount of drop or more than usual do to the probably still low CYA count? I plan on adding the usual 1 1/3 cup of the Kem-Tek tonight. Should I increase that dose or will that raise the CL count significantly. I have not yet fully grasped the ppm raise with X amount of Chemical. Definitely have more reading to do. If any really good posts you could direct me to for that I would appreciate it.

Had a Solar Cover question. I can get a really good price on a 18ft Solar Cover. The 24ft covers are much more expensive. I do not own so I do not want to invest to much but would be willing to spend a little if it helped. So would a cover that does not completely hide the water surface still increase the water temp effectively or would the remaining exposed pool area negate the covered areas increases? Probably already know the answer to this but figured was worth asking anyway.

Thanks!

[PoolDoc]

Roughly speaking, if you cover 50% of a pool, you'll get 50% of the effect. (18' round sft is about 56% of 24' round sft).