Newbie who lacks pool smarts needs those who have The Smarts

[Pool Dorkus Maximus]

Thanks Ben. I've ordered the kit, but it looks like it will be a couple days. To answer your post:

1. I just now sent the pics you requested, so hopefully they are there. And nope, pool hasn't been green and slimy at all since the cartridges were clean. That said, I think there may have been one time that it got slightly more dirty than usual, but it cleared up...can't recall if that was right before the cartridge change, or after.

2. I don't have any shock powder on hand...so if you had one you wanted to recommend (that I could possibly pick up locally), let me know and I'll get it. When you say 'until we have test readings', do you mean like the ones I've been posting the last couple days? Or, do you mean a reading once I have a better kit?

[Pool Dorkus Maximus]

Feel like a bit of a pest...but after more reading, I'm wondering why (in my case) no one is suggesting that I partially drain the pool? I'm sure there is a reason, but I don't know why.

I'm wondering if it'd help to partially drain - ie, wouldn't this both lower the cya, which then would lower my chlorine burn...so then I could deal w/ the short term imbalance (using less chlorine) while also ideally prepping my pool for longer term BBB method? In other words, don't I have to get rid of a high cya (now at about 180) at some point anyway, so why not now? What am I missing?

My water is totally clear, no algae...tho I understand the high cya may indicate a near-future bloom.

[PoolDoc]

For 75% people posting here, draining is risky. Inground vinyl pools can almost never be drained safely; AG pools can collapse; in wet ground both fiberglass and concrete pools can literally float up out of the dirt!. Beyond that, on the west coast, there often water restrictions EITHER on draining OR refilling.

So, we've kinda conditioned ourselves against recommending that. We are suggesting often, in the case of small Intex type pools, which can be drained safely, and which have filters that take forever to clear cloudy water.

In your case, there's almost no risk of 'floating' the pool . . . but I don't know about your local water restrictions. Do you want to drain?

[PoolDoc]

Your photos . . .

Equipment:

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Pool:

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[Pool Dorkus Maximus]

You posted my pics, thanks so much!

Now....go down to my timer pic...note anything a bit funny...? As I was adding more bleach today, I turned on my pump - and lo and behold, it appears my "OFF" slider on the timer came loose at some point and was sitting right next to ON. So basically, the pump has been turning ON at 12am, and turning off at about, oh, 12:05am. I know I know, genius.

I dunno how long it's been like that, I can't believe my pool isn't 100% green! So, assuming perhaps this has been going on for a short while - do you think this is why my numbers could be odd (cya, specifically)?

I honestly don't know if I want to drain....it's more like, if I don't - will I be fighting that cya forever? Or would it eventually come down on its own? I mean, I'd prefer to not be required to add a ton of bleach each week, bc of that cya. I will check the draining restrictions and see what that says. I know our pool has been drained and partially drained previously, by our former pool person.

Oh btw! Was reading more and saw Watermom mention liquid chlorine (aka, bleach) being legal in some states - and it's sold here in AZ. So, given it's 10% - and $6.86 for 2 gals - it makes it easier to haul around, and I'll need less volume than the 6%. Cool.

[PoolDoc]

Nope, I overlooked that little timer problem, too. I'd recommend operating 24/7 for a couple of days, then testing when the K2006 arrives, and THEN deciding if something needs to be done.