Nitrates in pool

[waterbear]

You did predissolve the shock, didn't you? Also, you did drop the pH first like I said, correct? Most likely you precipitated out some carbonate (and lowered both your TA and CH in the process). This makes me suspect that your TA and CH were higher than you reported (and is a good reason to get a Taylor K-2006 and do you own testing rather than rely on the pool store!) THIS is also the reason I initially suggested using bleach, since it will not cloud a pool . It's not a big deal and it will filter out. Brushing will help. I would suggest getting your water tested (and ordering your own test kit).
Did you ever test the water from the cell to make sure it is working properly?

How are you testing the pH? Some pH tests will read high with FC above 3 ppm, another reason we like the Taylor kits. They are good to about 10 or 15 ppm. If you are SURE that the pH is 8.0 and not just an interference from the FC at 8 ppm or above (how was that measured?) then go ahead and add some acid to get the pH down to about 7.6.

[newsaltwaterpool]

Yes, I predissolved the shock and dropped the ph.

The dust seems to have cleared now but the pool is still cloudy. I just got the Taylor K-2006 test kit and here are my results:
FC - 3 ppm
CC - 0.5 ppm
pH - 7.6
TA - 160
CH - 380
CYA - <30
salt - 3100 (3.1)

[PoolDoc]

1. With a DE filter, the cloudiness should clear pretty quickly, if you leave your pump on continuously.

2. How much more cal hypo do you have on hand? Can you buy dichlor at Sams Club? (only local source for undiluted dichlor)

[newsaltwaterpool]

The filter is off for the night, should I turn it on and let it run overnight?

I have approx. 10lbs cal hypo on hand.

Thank you for all of the help I am getting, it is very much appreciated!

[waterbear]

Yes, I predissolved the shock and dropped the ph.

The dust seems to have cleared now but the pool is still cloudy. I just got the Taylor K-2006 test kit and here are my results:
FC - 3 ppm
CC - 0.5 ppm
pH - 7.6
TA - 160
CH - 380
CYA - <30
salt - 3100 (3.1)

OK, as I suspected, your TA and CH were much higher than originally reported by Leslie's testing. No big surprise here, which is why we stress testing your own water. Keep the pump running a the pool will clear soon. Your TA is still high for a salt pool but that can be dealt with later.
Right now you need to get some CYA in there ASAP. That is why you have not been holding chlorine. Period! Also, you have some CC left after the shocking so there was probably an algae bloom on the verge. I think I know where Ben is going with the dichlor question. The fastest way to get CYA in the water is to shock with dichlor since it is so fast dissolving and it adds .9 ppm CYA for every 10 ppm FC added. It wont' be enough by any means but it will be a start.

[newsaltwaterpool]

Do I need to do anything about the cc reading? What do you recommend using to raise CYA since I don't have dichlor?

[PoolDoc]

You need to purchase some plain stabilizer -- cyanuric acid. That is still usually sold unblended or diluted, but we are beginning to see problems there, as well, so pay attention to the label when you buy.

To get a 60 ppm increase in stabilizer, you need 15 lbs.
Here are links from Amazon:

Kem-Tek Stabilizer 4lbs - $4/lb - Aug 2012
Nava Stabilizer 4lbs - $3.70/lb - Aug 2012
Nava Stabilizer 8lbs - $4/lb - Aug 2012

And, Walmart links (buy locally, but you can check stock online):

Aqua Chem Stabilizer, 3lbs - Caution: price not listed.
HTH Stabilizer and Conditioner
- listed at $16/lb!

Ironically, it's actually cheaper to buy dichlor, which is effectively 55% chlorine and 50% stabilizer (no, not a misprint -- a chemical oddity I'm not going to explain here) when you consider the value of both the chlorine and the stabilizer. And of course dichlor is much easier to use than the very slow to dissolve pure cyanuric acid.

24 lbs PoolBrand bagged shock @ Sams Club - ~$2.50lb - Aug 2012
Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs @ Amazon - $3/lb - Aug 2012