Deep Blue Water MP3000 Mpluse - does it work?

[waterbear]

Spibill,
I noticed in your sig that you have an ozone generator. They are basically worthless in an outdoor pool (but can be useful in an indoor pool with a persistent combined chlorine problem or in a bromine system). Ozone destroys chlorine and vice versa and in a pool is often likely to increase the amount of chlorine needed to maintain a desired free chlorine level. Ozone does NOT allow you to run a lower FC level (with a salt pool your FC should be at least 5% of your CYA and your CYA should be at the manufacturer's recommended MAXIMUM, which for the IntelliChlor is 100 ppm so you should keep your FC at 5 ppm or a bit higher). Under certain conditions (very high bather load, persistent CC problems) ozone MIGht allow you to set the cell output lower to achieve this FC level but the chances are it is actually requiring a higher setting of you cell then without ozone.
The good news is that you have a UV ozone generator and they really don't do a whole lot (except waste whatever money you spent on it). CD ozone generators are the only ones that really work but they need a drying chamber and reaction chamber to be effective. Finally, ozone is not residual and there should be NO ozone in the water introduced into the pool, since ozone is extremely toxic. As an experiment, turn off the ozone and see if you need to change the setting on the SWCG to maintain the SAME FC level (which, as I said, should be 5% of your CYA which should be at 100 ppm.)

Also, with a salt pool you will have better pH stability (and less chance of scale precipitating) if you lower the TA (UNADJUSTED) to about 70 ppm and do not let the pH climb above 7.8. Even with a CH of 500 or above this will keep your SI in range at temperatures up to 104 degress (for your spa). Adding borate to 50 ppm will also help lower the SI a bit so you have a bit more 'breathing room'. From playing with your numbers I don't really see you pool having a scaling problem, even with the high calcium (once the plaster is fully cured) if you keep the CYA at 100 ppm, FC at 5-6 ppm, TA 70 ppm, pH no higher than 7.8 (8.0 is fine if CH is below 500 ppm), CH below 600, and also consider adding 50 ppm borate which will further help lower the SI and also help stabilize the pH at around 7.7 for a longer period of time than without borate).

Don't put too much stock in the wheel that comes in the K-2006 nor some of the info in the booklet.
While much of it is good there is also some misinformation included. The info about the test interferences and the treatment tables are all that you really need. If you want to use adjusted TA because you are putting the CYA at 100 ppm the easy way is to just subtact about 33 ppm from the unadjusted TA. It will be close enough (or just put your unadjusted TA at 80 ppm and you should be fine, particularly if you add the borate.)