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  1. #1
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    Default Re: Water Question

    Add chlorine first. Always add chlorine first. Everything else is optional. Low pH may damage pools -- but low chlorine ALWAYS results algae and unsanitary pools.

    Add 1/4 gallon doses of PLAIN 6% household bleach to maintain chlorine levels ABOVE 2 ppm 110% of the time! Once you've done that, read the muriatic acid sticky linked in my signature and go from there.

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    Default Re: Water Question

    Ok, I have chlorine granules, tablets, and some 6% household bleach, which should I use, or should I use more than one? I also have stabilizer, and ph minus. I need to know the order in which each chemical should go in the pool, and how long do I wait in between to add each one, and how long in total I should wait to swim? Also, does the hth shock have anything to do with helping your pool to have free chlorine? I understood it to help kill any bacteria or organisms that the chlorine missed? I'm still really so confused about all this chemical stuff and thinking very seriously about buying a salt water pump next year, aren't they a lot easier to take care of? I read somewhere that all you have to do is keep salt in the pool, is that true?

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    Default Re: Water Question

    The granules, tablets, and bleach are all just different forms of chlorine. If you use the bleach, you'll need to add the stabilizer separately, and you can lower your pH with the dry acid (pH minus). If you use the tabs, they will add chlorine and stabilizer, and will also drive the pH down because they are acidic, so you won't need the pH minus. Check the ingredient on the granules--if they are dichloro...(lots of other syllables), they will also add stabilizer and drive pH down, but if the ingredients are cal-hypo,, then you'll need to add the stabilizer and adjust your pH separately.

    If you're adding stabilizer to the pool, you can either put it in an old sock and hang it in front of a return, or you can put it in the skimmer and let it go to the filter to dissolve--just don't backwash the filter for at least 4-5 days afterward, otherwise you'll just wash it all out and have to start over. If you're using the granules, you can then dissolve them in a bucket of water and then add it into the return stream where the water comes back to the pool from the filter. If you're using the bleach, it can also be poured into the return stream. With any chemicals poured into the return stream of the pool, you just have to wait 15-20 minutes or so between each chem, so the jets can help disperse it all. If you add pH minus, wait about an hour after you've added it to retest, because you need to give it time to circulate in the pool.

    As far as swimming goes, after you add the chems, wait 20-30 minutes, and as long as your ph is okay and your chlorine is within range based on your CYA (and your pool is clear), you can swim.

    Janet

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    Default Re: Water Question

    The chlorine tablets I have are cal-hypo. I added ph minus, stabilizer, and chlorine granules last night, and my free chlorine is still 0 and my ph is still high!!! Since I added stabilizer in the skimmer, should I just broadcast the chlorine granules instead of putting the tablets in my skimmer? And how often should I add ph minus and chlorine to get my levels to where they need to be??? So frustrated!!!
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 07-25-2012 at 03:52 PM. Reason: turn signature on
    6K gal Intex 18'x48" AG vinyl, using skimmer tablets, filled w/ utility water; Krystal Clear (59900) Krystal Clear 635T cartridge filter; HTH 2 way drops test kit

    18' round 6K gal Intex AG pool; skimmer tablets; Krystal Clear (59900) cartridge filter; Krystal Clear 635T pump; 4/6/2012hrs; the HTH 2 way drops test kit - tests total chlorine, bromine and ph; utility water; summer: ; winter: ; android phone; PF:20

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    Default Re: Water Question

    Pool_newbie,

    You are asking questions like "how often" and "how much" that don't have an answer, other than "as often as needed" and "as much as it takes". There are ways to answer those questions more precisely, you'd have to have skills and test capabilities you don't have.

    The time interval between your questions suggests you may be worrying less about the low chlorine than you should be: you're going to end up with a green pool!

    Do ALL these things:

    1. Read the muriatic acid page linked in my signature, then go get some muriatic acid -- 1 gallon is OK.
    2. Get 6 gallons of PLAIN household bleach.
    3. As soon as possible -- tonight? -- begin adding both bleach and acid, but NOT in the same spot in the pool. Make sure your pump is ON, and stays on the whole time.
    4. Add the bleach 1 pint -- 2 cups -- at a time. You can add it to the skimmer, if there are no tablets there.
    5. Add the acid about 1 cup -- guesstimate, don't measure! -- at a time, added to the water where it flows back INTO the pool.
    6. Do NOT handle both bleach and acid at the same time. Do NOT pour bleach and acid into the same spot in the pool, unless there's an hour between doses. DO wear glasses and gloves.
    7. Test the water ONE HOUR after both doses. If the chlorine level is not dark yellow, repeat. If the pH level is not below 7.6, repeat.
    8. Continue doing this till it's too dark to continue OR until the water is in range.

    Once you get the water adjusted once, REPEAT this process every evening, as needed. As the stabilizer dissolves, you should get some chlorine lasting through the day.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Water Question

    What does it mean if your pool smells like chlorine but no chlorine shows on the test?
    6K gal Intex 18'x48" AG vinyl, using skimmer tablets, filled w/ utility water; Krystal Clear (59900) Krystal Clear 635T cartridge filter; HTH 2 way drops test kit

    18' round 6K gal Intex AG pool; skimmer tablets; Krystal Clear (59900) cartridge filter; Krystal Clear 635T pump; 4/6/2012hrs; the HTH 2 way drops test kit - tests total chlorine, bromine and ph; utility water; summer: ; winter: ; android phone; PF:20

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    Default Re: Water Question

    It often means that you need more chlorine. Usually when there is a strong chlorine smell, your pool has a CC (combined chlorine) reading.

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