Quote Originally Posted by Linda needs help View Post
We will add the bleach now and get back to you after we recheck the numbers.
We have figured out how to vacuum to waste. Do you still need the pictures of the pump/filter/piping?
Don't need them; would be glad to have them for the photo library (something I'd like to have here, eventually)

the pool stores told us to add the baking soda and a second store told us to drain the water
Why am I not surprised?

We are currently using an Aquacheck meter in addition to strips to check the pool chemistries. Is this good enough or do we need to get the K2006 test kit (AquaChek® TruTest® Digital Test Strip Reader)- it gives actual numbers.
Yeah, it does. Unfortunately, they are partly RANDOM numbers! In most cases, if you collect ONE sample of water, and then test it 3 times, with 15 minutes or so in between, you'll get 3 different results! Actually, if you do this, I'd love to have the results! If you want to play completely fair, collect a sample in a water bottle or container you can close; refrigerate it, then test it every 2 hours.

But . . . yes, you need the K-2006.


We are currently using Sustain and know that it produces calcium as a byproduct. The pool stores are telling us to add scale inhibitor to control the calcium levels. This does nothing for the hardness. When the last heater died- the heat exchanger was caked with calcium (this was both of our heaters). No water could get through. This is why we are looking to move away from Sustain once we get the calcium under control. We believe all of our lines are probably coated with calcium.
How were you adding the Sustain? If you added it via the skimmer, AND had a sand filter, AND didn't lower you pH, your pH, TA and CH would have all reached a maximum level, and stayed there. I ran a commercial pool for 3 years with cal hypo . . . and had ZERO scale build up. I also used virtually NO other chemicals. I think I may have added a gallon of muriatic acid once, but that was the ONLY other chemical used for the entire period.

What chemical should we use for chlorination, once we fix the current problem that will not produce calcium so that we do not destroy yet another heater?
Bleach is easiest, at least conceptually. But the cal hypo is very easy, too . . . but you have to stay the heck away from the pool store, and you can't listen to their ideas about how it should be run (or the ideas on the Sustain label, for that matter.) That's hard for most people to do, so bleach is easier.