Convert indoor Baquacil pool to salt water chlorination?

[cchase009]

PoolDoc,

thanks for the info. From your post, should I assume sodium percarbonate will not have the off-gassing effect? I reviewed the procedures in the link - will there be anything to vacuum to waste? With the chlorine steps the instructions included vacuuming the bottom of the pool to waste. Will the sodium percarbonate clean the filter and the pipes?

Any side effects I should be aware of?

Thanks again.

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

Chem_Geek thinks not; I don't know for myself, but I trust his judgement and knowledge on that.

[chem geek]

It's not so much that there won't be any outgassing, but that whatever is outgassed won't be chlorinated by-products so are less likely to be harmful. Sodium percarbonate has hydrogen peroxide and generally it produces water when oxidizing other chemicals.

[cchase009]

Thanks Chem geek. Not only am I concerned with the toxicity to humans, I'm wondering what if anything it will do to the structure. Room is primarily covered in Drywall.

[PoolDoc]

Chlorine is DEFINITELY more of a problem for indoor structures than Baquacil. And, if you don't have continuous fresh air ventilation, the damage, especially to wiring, can be severe.

I have extensive experience with indoor commercial pools . . . and have chosen to stay away from that topic here, because most owners find the information we provide complex enough . . . but managing indoor chlorinated pools is MUCH more complicated, with much less certain results.

Honestly, the more you describe your situation, the more inclined I am to recommend that you STAY on Baquacil, as long as no one but your family uses it. (Baquacil is NOT an adequate sanitizer in a commercial environment). Baquacil can be used successfully long term, if you do two things:

1. Replace 1/3 to 1/2 of your pool water every 6 months of use.
2. Replace 100% of your filter media (sand or cartridge) every 12 months of use.

It does NOT sound like you have an enclosure that was properly designed for a pool room. You are likely to have problems regardless, especially if the pool room walls are exposed to winter temps. You should inspect for corrosion and wiring damage REGARDLESS. But, if you use chlorine, the lack of a properly designed enclosure may well become critical.

Sorry . . .

[cchase009]

Thanks PoolDoc. I was under the assumption the SWCG woulld keep the chlorine @ a very low level - is this not so? Would 1 -3 ppm be too much for an indoor pool? The pool store recommended those levels.

If I stay on Bacquacil, how do I get rid of the current condition? Drain and replace? If so, how do I go about clearing the pipes?

Regards,

C. Chase

[PoolDoc]

Low levels of chlorine don't necessarily affect the problem - you STILL have to add enough to react with the people goo. The only things that reduce that is to allow the pool to be used only by people with non-oily skin, who don't sweat and never pee in the pool or use skin lotion. (So, showering and peeing first, can make BIG difference.)

By the way, never, ever let a former competitive swimmer in your pool . . . unless you SEE them pee before they swim. They are ALL in the habit of peeing in the pool, a practice enforced by coaches who demand uninterrupted 2 hour practices by fully hydrated swimmers! (I'm speaking, as the father of two competitive swimmers, and the uncle of a third who has newly achieved national rank.)

To get rid of water mold, enough peroxide and algaecide will do it, but I can't tell you how much is enough. Here's what I'd recommend though:

1. Drain 100% of your pool (if the ground is dry enough so there's no risk of 'floating' the pool!)
2. Replace your sand.

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Working on the chemical guide -- will return to this.
http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/BAQ...t_up_49309.pdf