BBB and SWCG at setup Summer Escapes pool

[bojon91]

Hello, we are just getting our pool set up for the second season, and was wondering about how much I should buy to start with (not to add at once, but to add from...) for the BBB on setting up our 14'x42" pool. Am I correct in understanding I set it up BBB, then use the SWCG to maintain the chlorine level? I do already have 80 lb + of pool salt on hand.
Thanks!

[aylad]

You do understand correctly that you get the pool set up and running, and then use the SWCG to maintain the chlorine level. However, what you need to have on hand is going to depend greatly on the numbers that you're starting with for your fill water.

You will definitely need some CYA (also called stabilizer). How much stabilizer you need depends on the requirement of your SWCG, so you'll need to check your manual for that. Most of them want about 80 ppm CYA. You'll also need some muriatic acid to combat the pH rise that happens as the SWCG operates. You'll need some chlorine, as well--most of us use plain, unscented bleach, but you could also use cal-hypo (as long as your calcium level isn't too high) or dichlor (which will also add CYA and drive your pH downward). If you'll run a set of tests on your fill water with a drop-based kit (no strips!) and post the results here, we can give you better answers.

Welcome to the forum!

[bojon91]

Thanks! I used an HTH 3 way test kit, chlorine not registering at all (remained clear), PH at the highest level, so 8.2+

[aylad]

Ok, so you'll need muriatic acid to lower the pH, and bleach or one of the other forms of chlorine I mentioned for chlorine--and you need to get it in there quick before these summer temps allow a good batch of algae to grow!

[Watermom]

I'm estimating your volume to be around 3400 gallons. You need to get some chlorine in there or you'll have a green pool. We really need to know your CYA level to know what chlorine level to have you run in your pool. In your pool, each cup of 6% bleach will add about 1ppm of chlorine. For now, try and keep your chlorine between 2 and 4ppm.

You also need to lower your pH. since it is reading at the highest value on your kit, that means it could be much higher than that. Use some muriatic acid to lower the pH. please read the link in one of our signatures about using muriatic acid safely.

I am going to cut and paste below some information that is in a startup sticky we are working that may help you..

+ Get a cheap OTO (yellow drops) / phenol test kit, or if available at YOUR Walmart (check availability), get the HTH 6-way DROPS test kit, which is compatible with the Taylor K2006. Test the pool as soon and you can, and post the results. If you get the 6-way kit, ALSO test the water you FILL the pool with, especially if it's a well, and post THOSE results as well. (The HTH is the best available kit you're likely to find locally, but it's not the K-2006. It can only provide rough measurements chlorine levels above 5 ppm, and it measures "TOTAL" hardness, rather than "CALCIUM" hardness, which is not ideal.)


+ Having a good test kit makes pool care easier for EVERYONE. A good test kit means a kit that can test chlorine from 0 - 25 ppm, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and stabilizer with reasonable accuracy. Test strips (AKA 'guess-strips' ) do NOT meet this standard. Some pool store testing is accurate; most is not. The ONLY way you'll know whether your pool store is accurate or bogus, is by testing accurately your own self. On the other hand, pool store 'computer' dosing recommendations are NEVER trustworthy -- ignore them. They are designed to sell more chemicals than you need, and WILL cause many pool problems.


+ We recommend the Taylor K-2006 test kit, which meets the requirements above, for many reasons. The HTH 6-way drops kit is a great starter kit, and is compatible with the K2006 (it's made by Taylor). There are a few alternatives; for example Lamotte makes an FAS-DPD kit that's OK -- but it costs 3x as much. But, we're not aware of any test that is better, and since we are all familiar with the K-2006 (and can help you with it) we recommend it exclusively ( Test kit info page )

+ Buy some plain 6% household bleach, about 10 gallons per 10,000 gallons in your pool. You can switch to other products, later. But bleach will work, in almost any sort of pool mess, without complicating side-effects.


+ If you need stabilizer, and have access to a Sams Club, buy their 24lb pack of 1# bags of 100% dichlor shock. Each bag will add about 7 ppm of chlorine, and about 6 ppm of stabilizer, per 10K gallons of water. Otherwise, order dichlor from Amazon:

Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs

We do NOT recommend buying dichlor locally, otherwise, at least until you are an EXPERT reader of chemical labels. The chlorinating pool chemicals sold at Walmart, Kmart, Costco, and most other local stores are diluted blends, sometimes with copper and other products with bad side-effects.

+ It's much easier to answer your questions, when we know something about your pool. We often 'waste' the first few posts back and forth collecting information. So, please complete our new Pool Chart form -- it takes about 30 seconds, but will save much more than that.

Pool Chart Entry Form
Pool Chart Results

[bojon91]

Ok, so I got the HTH 6 Way DROPS kit: We have just plain water added to the pool at the moment, bought bleach and am going back for CYA and a dry acid now...unless I can find a small container of muriatic acid, we don't like the volatility of it.
Cl/Br--stayed clear
pH--at or above 8.2
CYA--stayed clear
Alk--450 ppm
Hardness--started off blue

[aylad]

I don't know where you live, but if you have a Tractor Supply Company chain of stores where you live, they sell it at 31% strength in 1 quart sizes, as well as the gallon sizes. Don't worry about the calcium hardness, in a vinyl pool it won't matter. The alk will come down when you adjust the pH down. Now you need bleach for chlorine, and CYA to protect it from the sun.