My Mineral Springs system continues to show "no flow". We balanced the water & got it right, then added the salt. Still shows "no flow" & I am afraid we just wasted $100 worth of salt? Any help on trying to troubleshoot before $140 for a new flow switch? We are new pool owners & don't have a clue. Sorry!
Let me move this so Waste, Waterbear and PoolSean can see it. Mineral Springs is BioGuard's proprietary model, and they are pretty sparse on the service info. But I think those guys know who makes what. You may have to be patient; we have just been swamped with new traffic.
The good news is, if your chemistry is set up correctly to the SWCG . . . it will be VERY easy to run manually, till you get your unit worked out. And, it's much easier to answer questions, when we have the details about your pool in one place. So, please complete our new Pool Chart form -- it takes about 30 seconds, but will save much more than that.
Also, if you'll tell me HOW you test, and give me your current test readings, I can help you with a quick and dirty recipe for treating your pool, so you can use till your SWCG comes back online.
Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-20-2012 at 06:20 PM.
Reason: fix pool chart links
First let me say that until you get the unit working again PLEASE do what PoolDoc asked so you can chlorinate your pool manually so you do not have problems.
The mineral springs units were rebranded Goldline units (Hayward) and looked like this:
IF that is what yours looks like then the flow switches do go bad or get fouled with calcium. They really cannot be cleaned when this happens but should be replaced, IMHO.
Here is a short video that shows you how to do it properly.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
That's the Hayward switch. There's nothing special about it. It's a simple inductive switch with two wires connecting through an rj11 "phone" connector on the control board. When water flows through the line, it physically pushes the metal tab into the other lead and closes the electrical circuit. I got an aftermarket switch when I replaced mine last year, but I'm pretty sure I paid more than the Hayward part is going for on amazon now: http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-FL.../dp/B0030E3US2 .
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