They are not the same thing. Washing soda is sodium carbonate. It will raise pH and alk. Borax is sodium tetraborate. It will raise pH without affecting alk much.
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda? Is that different from 20 Mule Team Borax? Or no difference?
They are not the same thing. Washing soda is sodium carbonate. It will raise pH and alk. Borax is sodium tetraborate. It will raise pH without affecting alk much.
k2006 kit received today. Bucket test and pool test results added to history remarks along with latest test details. FC & CC 111. Algae bloom seems to be under control. Chlorine level seems to be being maintained. Will continue to monitor closely. For pool of my size, what should normal expected liquid chlorine addition on what basis should be expected to be added? (1 gal per day, 1/2 gal every other day etc.?)
In your pool, each gallon (4 quarts) of 6% bleach will add 3.6ppm of chlorine. Use that as a reference to help you figure out doses of bleach to add. With a CYA of 90, you need to be keeping your chlorine between 5-10 all the time or risk an algae bloom. And, when you do need to shock, your shock level will be 20ppm. Test the chlorine (and pH) each evening. At that time, add enough bleach to get the chlorine back up to 10ppm. With a CYA as high as yours is, you may find that you can add bleach every 2 or 3 days instead of daily without the cl dropping below 5ppm. You'll soon learn how your pool behaves through testing with your kit and through observation of your water.
By the way -- you might want to try those chlorine tests again. You don't have a FC and a CC reading of 111. This testing demo may be helpful to you:
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Ch...P?ContentID=11
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr..._slideshow.asp
Try this link, instead:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZvF5q_amVs
Huh. How come I didn't know about that link? Y'all hiding stuff from me again?![]()
Uh, I uploaded all the Taylor vids, because they are so hard to view, and can't be directly linked. I meant to put them in sticky in testing, but I forgot about them. Here are all the ones I've put up:
K2006 FAS-DPD FC & CC test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZvF5q_amVs
K2006 pH test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ZNiyhfyiU
Taylor pH test interferences
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3nFLchjGN0
Taylor total alkalinity (TA) interferences
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmpS--VsNrY
K2006 calcium hardness (CH) test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAQyi4QYtP0
K2006 Cyanuric acid test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8whkC5WtS8g
K2006 Cyanuric acid test
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8whkC5WtS8g
PoolDoc / Ben
At some point in the recent past, Pool Doc said to keep my pH at 7.0. Now that my basic problem is maintaining a CL level SEEMS to be under control, should pH stay around 7 or the more normal typically recommended of 7.4 -7.6?
Hi Mike,
In post #7 in this thread Ben advised to drop pH to 7 using muriatic acid. His goal, if I understand it correctly, was to avoid further scaling since your calcium hardness was very high.
I just looked at the numbers you posted in your chemical chart. The FC and CC look great! Yes, it makes sense to have CC = 0. That's the entire point of it! Good work. Unfortunately, there were no test results for alk (TA) and CH. Ben was hoping to be able to determine why your CH is so high. Until he can look at this thread again and refresh his memory it would be best to keep the pH low. One of the mods will make sure Ben takes a look at this and advises you further.
Oval 12.5K gal AGP; Hayward 19" sand filter; Pentair Dyn 1 HP 2sp pump on timer
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I have reposted additional testing stats as requested to include TA & CH. When testing for CH, titration to change sample from red to blue. Mine is really kind of purple more so than blue, but blue after sitting for a few minutes. Additionally the sample seems to have something that appears to not totally dissolve and I'm wondering of my chemicals are ok or is what I am seeing "normal"
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