White gritty scale

[PoolDoc]

I have to make those individually, and haven't gotten yours done. But, with TA = 170, keep your pH low (6.8 - 7.0).

[Wapak]

If I do need to lower or increase ph, what product do you suggest using. i have some hth ph plus left, but will have to get something soon, so would like your opinion.

Thanks!

[PoolDoc]

Lower pH with muriatic acid -- BUT read the page linked in my signature, first!

Raise pH with borax -- 1/2 to 1 box of 20 Mule Team borax added slowly to the skimmer with the pump running.

[Wapak]

Hi Ben

Here is an update on my pool tests

Ph 7
Chlorine 3
TA still at 170

Just let me know, the water has been crystal clear, but that scale remains. just let me know, thanks!

[aylad]

Bumping this post back up....

[PoolDoc]

Hi Wapak;

Have you continued to hold the pH at 7.0? Is the pool remaining uncovered? If so, you should have seen a drop in TA by now. Once your TA gets below 100 ppm, you should begin seeing some scale removal or loosening.

Let me know, if you have not.

[Wapak]

Hello!

Its been a couple years since I posted here, but my pool has been doing fine since you last helped me, and thanks again!

However, this year, I have a different problem, but I think similiar in nature.

A week ago I opened my pool. The water was green, brown, dark. So I got everything up and running and checked my ph level first. It was really high, very dark purple. I started there. I didnt have any muratic acid, but I did have the hth ph minus granules, so I added about 48 ozs of it broadcasting over the pool. I then went around and brushed the sides some, but just let the filter run overnight.

The next day, I checked the ph again, it was down to 7.2. At that point, i started shocking by adding my bleach, I added bleach until it was reading a strong orange on my test kit (approx 10 gals). About two hours after beginning my shock, unfortunately, my pool pump motor stopped working (it ended up being the bearings).

The pool had to sit idle for three days while I waited on a motor. I did go out and lightly brush the sides, but nothing i could do other than that.

The motor arrived and I installed. It runs great-so i checked the water. My ph was back up to 7.8 and my chlorine level was down to 5.

So, I added more bleach to get the shock level back up. The next day (this past saturday) the water had cleared quite a bit. I could see the bottom, so I started vacuuming.

But, I now have large areas of an almost brown to tan to grey scale appearing all over my pool floor and walls. It does not completely brush off, i know some is coming off as a light cloud appears when i do vaccuum or brush over it.

My current readings are:

Chlorine (orange-off the chart of my test kit)
PH: 7.2
TA: 45 (that seems really low,but i checked it twice)

This seems like the same problem i had before, but it is now stained brown?? Is there any advice you can give me that may remove this without alot of continual brushing that doesnt seem to be doing a whole lot of good??

I have a picture I can post if you wish of it, but Im not sure how to put a photo on here, just let me know.

Any help would be so appreciated!!

[PoolDoc]

1. Email the picture to poolforum@gmail.com.

2. Next time your pump dies, remember that you can buy bleach and pour it in, even with the pump off.

3. Get a K2006, and do a FULL test of your pool chemistry (FC, CC, TA, CH *and* CYA). http://pool9.net/test/

4. Assuming your pool is filled from the same water supply as the toilets in your house, do a 'metals test' on your pool water: take the lid off a toilet tank, and see what color the interior of the tank is. Tell us what you see.

[Wapak]

Hello and thanks for responding!

Unfortunately, the best I could do is a HTH 6 way test kit, that is what I have also been using for the last couple years. I hope it is ok with those results, if absolutely necessary, i will hunt down a more in depth kit to post more results, Im hoping these numbers will do??

Right now:

Chlorine level 4
PH 6.8
Total Hardness: 550
Total Alkalinity 180
CYA: I used the entire bottle cya reagent that I had left, (35 drops) and still could not get the black dot to disappear.

My water is really hard as we have a well, this is what I do fill the pool from, so yes in my toilet tanks there is rust staining on the walls of the tanks.

But, I have had a little rust stain here and there, never alot, on the pool sometimes, this doesnt look anything like a rust stain i have had before.

I wanted to add too that this morning, after I had added more chlorine shock last night, it seemed to loosen alot of the darker patches of this stuff as I was brushing it.

I did email a picture, but you may want a better one, just let me know.

I think I answered as much as I could, but if not, please let me know if I can provide more info to you.

I have not added any bleach yet tonight, so if you do respond, let me know if you think I should keep shocking it. The pool water is still quite cloudy and hazy in the deep end.

Thank you again!

Rich

[PoolDoc]

Using more CYA reagent doesn't affect the reading: you mix a 50:50 solution of reagent + pool water, wait 2 minutes or so, and then see if the solution is 'cloudy' enough to make the drop disappear.

If it's NOT cloudy enough . . . you have zero stabilizer.

It's very, very unusual to have well water that is (a) hard [contains calcium] and (b) contains iron. Once you get the K2006, you'll need to test BOTH your pool water and your fill water. Try this link for the K2006, shipped BY Amazon. Try it in the AM Tuesday and Wednesday. They may well have some then, and you'll get it faster from Amazon than from any of the other sellers on Amazon.