pink algae and other problems

[matthew64]

So I have a inground vinyl liner pool that is 35,000 gallons with some problems. I apparently don't know what I am doing. I have a rather large pink algae problem (the pink/purplish bacteria), it was this spring on all surfaces. it didn't seem to be going away with opening shock or subsequent shocks (I thought I was keeping at around 10ppm, but now am not completely sure). So I went off half cocked, read some things on the internet (not this site) and put several bottles of bromine tablets because I thought I was dealing with chlorine resistant bacteria. That has seemed to work after multiple scrubbings and latest bromine application (4 days ago). At this moment the pool doesn't look bad. But after discovering this site I now realize I screwed up with the bromine. I also discovered that my CYA is sky high (way over 100, maybe even twice that) and that is playing a part.
My levels that I checked this morning were as follows:
FC - 3.5
CC - 3.5
CYA - >>100
Ph - I didnt get a chance to check this AM, but its been running low on test strips like 6.8 or so
Alkalinity - again didn't get a chance to check level today, but its been running low

My question is this. Do I have to drain my pool? I know it would kill 2 birds with one stone (the high CYA and the bromine ions), or could I continue to shock the pool and maybe drain some water to try and lower the CYA? My pool gets full sun by the way for 12 hrs. Thanks for any help!!

[aylad]

You can run a high CYA pool, and just adjust your chlorine levels to compensate. Take a look at the "best guess chlorine chart" linked in my sig. However, I'll have to let Ben answer your question about the bromine.

What type of testing are you doing? We don't find test strips to be reliable--we highly recommend that you get a drop- based kit(see the test kit link in my sig, too). The K-2006 is a good kit that will accurately test most everything you need.

[PoolDoc]

Don't panic; do all the following instead:

1. Get a cheap OTO testkit (or a Walmart HTH 6-way if available)
2. Raise your chlorine to the orangish-yellow range (~20 ppm)
3. Compete the PF Pool Chart, to allow us easy access to your pool info:

Pool Chart Entry Form
Pool Chart Results

4. Look at the test kit info page in my signature, and order a K-2006
5. Brush your pool thoroughly.
6. Check into the cost of having your pool professionally drained. (It's tricky to drain a liner pool without ruining the liner.)

Do not panic; a few bromine tabs are not going to make or break things. (How few was it?)

[matthew64]

Thanks for the replies! I do have the Taylor complete kit, i sometimes use the test strips for quick reference, but I have the Taylor kit.

"Raise the chlorine to 20ppm" - how long should I keep it at that level? Is that 20ppm FC or TC?
my Ph is better than I thought it was - its 7.2 when I checked this morning (with the Taylor), not that does a lot for me.

It was 3 bottles of the walmart type (http://www.walmart.com/ip/HTH-Spa-No...blets/17043664) over the course of 2 weeks.

[PoolDoc]

It was 3 bottles of the walmart type (http://www.walmart.com/ip/HTH-Spa-No...blets/17043664) over the course of 2 weeks.

No wonder. You ended up with a false chlorine reading. If you have any left, use them in the toilet tank -- they're not bad for that. (And, it will get rid of them safely!)

Read the Best Guess chart; with a CYA>100, 20 ppm will be the level to hold till we've determined what your actual CYA level is. By the way, it's perfectly safe for swimming -- after you've cleaned up the 'algae' (which is actually bacteria!).

[matthew64]

what do you mean until Ive determined the actual CYA level? My Taylor kit only measures CYA to 100 (but it was much higher). How long would I need to keep my chlorine level that high vs draining the pool?