CYA scale is not linear so if it is near 30 ppm just call it 30 ppm. For the TA (and CH test) you want to keep adding drops until one more drop produces no more color change and then do not count that last drop. For example, if the test started changing at 7 drops, turns red at 10 and an 11th drop produces no further color change then don't count that 11th drop. Your TA would be 100 ppm. Also, just because an vinyl pool does not NEED calcium does not mean you do not need to test for it. High calcium levels can be problematic for ANY pool and evaporation will concentrate calcium over time. You probabloy don't need to test it more than once a month (unless the TA "mysteriously" drops or the pool get cloudy and it is not algae--however, in these cases it is usually too late and if you had known the CH before hand you could have taken corrective action BEFORE these problems).

AS far as filtering out living algae, you are correct. It cannot be filtered out. You have to kill it first.

As far as bleach vs. liquid chlorine, the only difference is (sometimes) the strength (and therefore, the amount needed to achieve a certain ppm of chlorine in the pool). Laundry bleach is sold in 3%, 5.25%, 6% and lately 8.25% strength. Pool chlorine (which many pool tech call "bleach" because it is!) is sold in 6%, 10% and 12.5 % strengths, with the last two most common. 10% is usually sold in one gallon jugs and often spends a lot of time sitting in a warehouse so it might not be 'full strength' when you buy it. 12.5% is usually sold in refillable carboys and, if bought from a supply that sell a lot, is usually fresh. In many parts of the country 12.5% pool chlorine is a more economical way to chlorinate than bleach is but you have to do the math first. Laundry bleach is usually going to be fresh if you buy it from a high volume retailer like Walmart. Both bleach and pool chlorine are exactly the same, sodium hypochlorite.