My Pool Water Turned Cloudy After Adding Bleach

[PoolDoc]

+ Turn your pump on LOW speed (not lowest) , and run it continuously!
+ Don't backwash till you see a pressure increase from the 'clean' pressure.
+ If you want to speed things up, buy one of these floc products:

GLB Pool & Spa Products 71408 1-Quart Drop n' Vac Pool Water Clarifier @ Amazon
Blue Wave Super Floc 4 x 1 qt. @ Amazon - 4 days to ship
Proteam Superfloc Clarifier

All three are PAC, polyaluminum chloride, and MAY help you clean up the dead algae. The last one is not available on Amazon, but may be available locally. The first one is shipped by Amazon, so if you order it, get the Amazon Prime trial, and they'll ship it to you 2-day at no extra cost. (Remember to cancel the trial, unless you use Amazon a lot. But, I live by it at Xmas!)

But, flocs are not predictable, and you need to test first. You'll need a clean white plastic 4 - 5 gallon bucket. If you get the floc, tell me what you get and what the recommended dose is per 10,000 gallons, and I'll tell you how to test.

Once you get the chlorine up, and have brushed up all the algae (sounds like you are already there!), you can also try and see if it will settle without floc. Just turn your pump off for 24 hours (or, in your case, you can turn it to the LOWEST setting) and see if the algae will settle.

+ You don't need to vacuum, unless something is there to vacuum.
+ Only backwash when there's a pressure increase; do NOT backwash on HIGHEST: you'll blow the sand out of your filter!

Good luck!

[CarlD]

+ Only backwash when there's a pressure increase; do NOT backwash on HIGHEST: you'll blow the sand out of your filter!

Ben,
Is this specifically for Wraypau? Usually, one backwashes on High. I always do.
What about adding DE to the sand filter?

[PoolDoc]

VFD pumps are all 2 - 3 HP motors; on their highest settings they are TOO large for any but the very largest sand filters (800lb and up). On their highest setting, they will blow sand out of smaller filters, and may crack laterals.

We are going to begin seeing questions that result from this problem.

[Wraypau]

I bought the ProTeam MicroFloc Clarifier. It says to add 14oz per 10,000 gallons. How would you test?

Also, I have a gunite pool, what type of vacuum would you recommend? thanks!

[PoolDoc]

14 fl oz to 10K gallons is a 10 ppm dose.

To duplicate that with a 3 gallon white bucket test, add 1/8 teaspoon to 1 cup of tap water (1:384 dilution), and mix. Put 3 gallons of POOL water in a CLEAN WHITE plastic bucket. Add 1.5 fl. oz (3 TABLESPOONS) of the mix, to the pool water. Mix, cover, wait 24 hours.

[Wraypau]

Roger that. I did the calculation, and figured 1 litre of water to 0.01 ml of Flocculate. I did several test, including the one you mentioned with 3 gal :1 Teaspoon. I will see what it looks like tomorrow.

I added another 1.42 gallons of bleach, and swept the walls/floor. The murky white water turned to a brown green, you could see it boiling up at the end of each stroke with the broom across the bottom.

My Taylor 1000 kit came in, so I figured I would give it a try, and I am reading a more brighter yellow than the highest setting. This correlates to a more than 5 Cl and more than 10 Br. Also, on the pH, I read a darker purple than the highest setting. This correlates to more than an 8.2 pH. I would think that this is to high, and is wasting some of my Chlorine. What should I add to straight out the pH?

I was going to vacuum the bottom, but the connector that attaches the hose to the skimmer was not the right size. i will get the correct size and try again tomorrow.

I had already added the floc when I found that my Taylor 1000 came in. Hope I didnt wast 9.8 ounces of it.

What are your recommendations? I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I will subscribe and be a paying member. How do I do so?

[Watermom]

If your pH is truly over 8.2, then you need to use a little muriatic acid to lower it. However, depending on how high your chlorine was when you tested the pH, your pH reading may be falsely high. So, when your chlorine drops below 5ppm, retest the pH. If it still tests over 7.8, lower it. Please read the link in my signature below about using muriatic acid safely.

Also in my signature, is the link and information about becoming a subscriber. We appreciate the financial support to keep our forum alive!

[PoolDoc]

I added another 1.42 gallons of bleach, and swept the walls/floor. The murky white water turned to a brown green, you could see it boiling up at the end of each stroke with the broom across the bottom.

Make SURE your chlorine is high, when this happens. That green sludge EATS chlorine . . . and if it gets ahead, you'll wake up to a green pool!

My Taylor 1000 kit came in, so I figured I would give it a try, and I am reading a more brighter yellow than the highest setting. This correlates to a more than 5 Cl and more than 10 Br. Also, on the pH, I read a darker purple than the highest setting. This correlates to more than an 8.2 pH.

Nope. It correlates to converting "phenol red" to "chloro-phenol red", which is a different dye. Ignore your pH readings when your chlorine is that high and your CYA is not.