Pool Nub

[Michaelam]

To continue the above, tests this morning yielded (still waiting on the FAS-DPD K-2000):

CL- >10 ppm
pH >8.2 (acid drop 15 drops to get to ~7.6)
TA 120-130 ppm

Left as is and headed to work. Tests this evening:

Water blue, but cloudy
Cl- non-detectable (no stabilizer, all day sun, oxidation)
pH >8.2 (acid drop ~ 5 drops to get to 7.6)
TA 150 ppm
NaCl 4200 ppm (ideal is 3500, 3000 is too low, so I'm not going to feed and bleed at this time)

Added 3 cups HCl

Will add ~5 gallons of bleach before bed

Questions:
1) Why is pH still high - from day one? (neighbor's pH has always been low - same water)

2) Based on above recommendation (no green), will it be ok to add CYA tomorrow?

3) Any additional suggestions?

[PoolDoc]

+ Add 4 gallons of PLAIN 6% bleach each evening
+ Add 1/2 gallon of muriatic acid; test pH following AM (adding acid page linked in my sig)
+ Turn off your SWCG -- you're just wearing it out, and it's not all that helpful in this situation, anyhow. (Use SWCG to MAINTAIN clean pools; not clean up swamps!)
+ There are all sorts of reasons why your pH might be high -- not going to speculate. Let's get your pool cleaned up, and then see if you have a pH problem.
+ Do not worry about salt levels, TA, CH, etc till your pool is clean.
+ Do worry about CYA: what was your stabilizer level on closing this fall, and what is it now?

[Watermom]

Test your pH when your chlorine is low and you're more likely to get a more accurate result. (When your chlorine is below 5ppm or with a Taylor K-2006, when it is below 15ppm.)

[Michaelam]

Here's an update:

Water is now clear. SWCG still off. Adding 4 gallons 6% bleach per night. Here's my dilemma: I measure pH when Chlorine is low - in the evening so that I get a more accurate reading. Using a phenol test, I get a very light pink color (as in a light shade of the highest on the scale), which appears to be 7.8 to 8.2. I have been second checking with strips, and they indicate 7.8 to 8.4. My problem is that when I do an acid drop test to see how much I should add to get pH lower, it doesn't progress through any of the colors on the pH scale - it goes from the light pink to almost clear. Sooo, I've been hesitant to add any more acid. In short, I need some advice on how to proceed.

[PoolDoc]

Increase the number of drops of phenol red you use, and see if you can get a more definite color.

[Michaelam]

Started SWCG this morning before I left for work. When first started, it is programmed to run on "super chlorinate" for three hours. Got home this evening to crystal clear water, and was finally able to do a full test set using the K-2006. Here are the results:

FC: 9 ppm
CC: 1 ppm
TC: 10 ppm (Did a second check using OTO and came up with about 4 ppm) Up until this point, when I get home, there is typically 0 ppm Cl in the evening (left over from bleach add night before & no CYA)
pH: ~7.6 (1 drop of acid took it to ~7.4)
TA: 120 ppm
Hardness: 130 ppm
CYA: ZERO (hadn't added any at this point)

SWCG manual calls for the following:

FC: 1-3 ppm (I'm out of spec high)
pH: 7.2-7.8 (though the manual also says these pools tend to settle out around 7.8)
TA: 100-200
Hardness: 200-300 (I'm out of spec low)
CYA: 30-60 ppm (I'm out of spec low)

I used bleachcalc and came up with ~7 lbs CYA for a 30 ppm move. However, I only added 3 lbs tonight.

Questions:
1) My SWCG is oversized, I assume after tomorrow, I will need to dial it back somewhat. True?

2) Is the hardness level a concern? If so, what should I do?

3) If bleachcalc is correct, I should see ~15 ppm CYA tomorrow. Correct? Should I then make another add to slowly get into spec? Once I'm there (30-60), what is ideal?

Thanks for all the help. This site is great. I'm already getting glazed over stares when I tell people I'm using the BBBSWCG method of pool chemistry control.

[PoolDoc]

? #1 => Yes, turn the unit down as needed.

? #2 => Do NOT raise the calcium level, yet.

? #3 => Not necessarily, CYA can take several days to dissolve.

And, more:

4. Do try to run high CYA (~80 ppm) for most SWCGs; Do NOT try to run 1 - 3 ppm FC -- it's too low.

A number of guys are running SWCG systems with FC = 5% of CYA . . . but many of them (most?) are in western, or west coast areas that are dry and do not have the humidity, thunderstorms and the like that can leave algae in every bit of dirt and on every leaf. I'd recommend the higher levels you see in my Best Guess Chart (blue signature block).