Pool Help/Advice for new pool owner

[Wraypau]

This is actually multiple questions, and I am not sure which section to post in. Here is the deal.

I just bought a foreclosed house that has a in ground pool already installed. The pool pump was burned up when purchased. The sand filter was old. I bought a Hayward Super Pump 3/4 hp, and new sand filter for system.

I then realized that Gulf Power (I live in florida) was offering an incentive on buying an energy efficient pool pump. So I then purchased a AquaRite Salt Water system and a Hayward Ecostar VSP34000 or something like that.

I installed the Hayward superpump and have my system back up and running.

My plan is to clear the water up using chemicals (water column to shallow to drain and refill). Once the water is cleaned up, and all the debris is out of my pool, I plan to plumb in the new Ecostar variable speed pump and Salt water system.

Question 1- Does it make sense to use the cheap water pump and old filter to clear water before installing the Variable speed pump and salter water system? If not, how would you do it?

Next on the list, the pool has sat up without any running water for at least 2 years, there are palm leaves, and other various stuff floating, so I assume that some has sank also. The water is a dirty greenish color. No telling what I will find when I can see bottom.

The pool is a kidney shape, and according to calculators online, it is between 6,900-7,000 gallons. Yes, its a super small in ground.

Question 2 - What chemicals, how much of each chemical, How long would you wait between each chemical treatment, and in what order would you put into the pool system to clean the water?

Question 3 - I have a pipe coming out off the pool return line, that is labeled cleaner. Would you put the chemicals into it, so they will be blown out of the jets into the pool, or would you just walk around pool and pour chemicals evenly around edge?

Question 4 - Where is best place to buy these chemicals? I would like to stay as cheap as possible, but will do whatever it takes to get the pool right.

This is my first home, and my first pool. I have never taken care or brought a pool to swimming condition before, so details in replies is greatly appreciated. Again, I appreciate any advice given on this. Happy Swimming!

[PoolDoc]

1. Doesn't matter, so long as your pump is not too big for your filter. If it is, the VFD pump would allow you to turn flow rates down low enough for it work properly. Do NOT force algae through your filter -- that will NOT work out well for you.

2. There are multiple ways to do it. What's your priority: as fast as possible; as cheap as possible; as easy as possible?

3. Depends. Most should go through skimmer if possible. Bleach should go into the pool. Need pump and filter info.

4. Am posting a page on that topic today -- it's linked already (where to get chemicals) but not up.

5. You didn't ask, but you need a good test kit, if you don't want to be subject to the pool store's tender mercies. See the test kit page (also linked in sig). Get an OTO kit (locally or not), a K-2006 (usually online only) and if you like, salt test strips.

6. Put your pool info: volume, surface finish, equipment list ESPECIALLY your filter info into your signature. (link in my sig)

[Wraypau]

I think I would prefer the fastest, cheapest, and easiest way. LOL. I know thats not going to happen, so I guess I would rate it in this order.

1. Fastest
2. Price
3. Difficulty

I ordered the K-2006, OTO Kit, Salt strips, from you link provided. I hope you receive the 4% from the sales. I appreciate the help/advice.

I dont have a clue as to what chemicals to treat the pool with. I plumbed the pool with the older SuperPump and old filter. i plan on using this until I get it clean, then I will plumb and wire in the AquaRite 25k SWCG and Ecostar pump. How would you go about clearing the water? I see you said to add bleach directly into the pool. How much, how often, etc...

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How do I get my account to where it will be visible without a moderator approving it? I am on several other web forums, just not use to how this oen works to well yet. Thanks!



Again, I am completely new at this, I am an engineer by trade, so I am good at following directions, performing tests, etc.. Just need to know where to start, what to look for, and how to finish. Thanks again for the help. Its greatly appreciated!

[PoolDoc]

Last question first: right now, subscribe ($14, link in my sig); after July 4th, I'm intending to set up an auto-upgrade for folks, but it will go first to folks who've been here over a year, and who have posted answers that helped OTHER people.

Question #2: About cleaning up your pool:

1. Drain, power wash with a hose or a low power pressure washer.

2. Buy dichlor Kem-Tek Dichlor 22.5lbs @ Amazon OR "Poolbrand" bagged pool shock at Sams Club. Do NOT buy elsewhere, unless you are good and reading chemical labels, and can distinguish the dichlor blends (@ Costco, Walmart, most pool stores, etc.) from the real stuff. The Sams dichlor is an EXCELLENT price; the Amazon price is not bad. Each lb will add about 8 ppm free chlorine and about 7 ppm of stabilizer. Use the dichlor to shock, and to maintain the pool till you reach 80 ppm CYA.

3. Refill and add salt -- probably about (4) 40lb bags.

4. Add 9 boxes of borax to your pool, 2 boxes at at time. Use muriatic acid (see link in sig) to keep pH below 7.8. (50+ ppm of borax will stabilize your pools pH somewhat, make it more resistant to algae, and a bit friendly to salt electrolysis. Many people also perceive that the pool 'sparkles' more -- borax does change the refractive index slightly.

5. Turn the SWCG on after your CYA reaches 80 ppm.

6. Use the remaining dichlor -- not the SWCG -- to 'shock' the pool every week or so. (See Best Guess chart in sig). This will reduce load (and increase life) on your SWCG, and will help maintain CYA levels.

7. Use borax and muriatic acid, as needed to adjust pH

8. Use K-2006, salt strips and borate strips to keep an eye on the pool. Use a K1000, HTH 6-way or local OTO kit to do a 30 second check every day or so.

9. Report your pH, TA, and calc levels, once you've got everything running. You might need to add a bit of calcium to protect your pool plaster.

. . . at least, that's how I'd do it!

[Wraypau]

Are you recommending to drain my pool all the way? This was my original idea, but i am not sure if I can do it. I live less than 1 mile from the bay. I think I might be to close to the water column. I will be digging a hole today, to see if I will reach the column or not. If I hit water, it is my understanding that if I drain, it could collapse the gunite? Is this correct?

If I drain, I need to pipe the water about 200 yards, to a nearby sewer head. Have any suggestions on where to get a pipe of that size?

2. You suggest to add the dichlor to add free chlorine and stabilizer. What levels do i want my pool at? How do i calculate to get the ppm? Is this what the test is for? Is that the ratio of chemical to 1 million gallons? How much would you start with? i have a 7k gallon pool?

If I cannot drain my pool all the way down and start over, how would you do it?

Again, thanks for the help.

[PoolDoc]

Ahh-h, more details.

So, draining is NOT faster or easier. Scratch that.

Instead,

1. Start scooping and vacuuming the gunk.
2. Start adding plain 6% bleach, a gallon (10 ppm FC) at a time, every evening.
3. Get a K-2006 and report pH, TA, CH CYA values on the pool and pH, TA, CH values on the fill water.
4. Get a local OTO (see testkit page in my sig) and skip daily bleach dose when chlorine is dark yellow.
5. Post again after the pool is cleaned up, and you have K2006 readings -- or if you have an issue.
6. Meanwhile, keep pH between 7 - 8 and chlorine (OTO) between 5 (very yellow) and 10 (dark yellow)

PPM is must that: parts per million. For pool purposes, it's weight to weight, so a pound of cyanuric acid dissolved in a 120,000 gallon (1MM lb) pool will raise the CYA 1 ppm.