Things seem to be improving more quickly than you suggested they would. This morning I had:
pH: 7.5
FC: 12
CC: 0.5
CYA: 20
Is there a reason to continue with the program you outlined above?
Things seem to be improving more quickly than you suggested they would. This morning I had:
pH: 7.5
FC: 12
CC: 0.5
CYA: 20
Is there a reason to continue with the program you outlined above?
Pool: 25K gal - In-ground / Gunite ● Pump: American Products 384484 1.5 HP ● DE Filter: American Products Titan CM #57025000 48 ft^2
Valve: American Products 2.0" Side Mount Multiport 501692 ● Lights: American Products Model R-300 BC ● Cleaner: Hayward Pool Vac Ultra, 2005C
No, it looks like you can do what you want.
You may wish to consider doing this:
1. Go to Sams Club and get their 24 pack of PoolBrand dichlor shock.
2. Use those packs to chlorinate for the next 2 - 3 weeks. Doing so will ALSO add about 50 ppm of stabilizer to your pool
3. Use borax to keep your pH 7.4 - 7.8 (Dichlor has no initial effect on pH, but a strong acidic effect, as it's used up)
4. Raise the pH to near 7.8, when the dichlor is gone.
5. Make sure your filter is full of sand and working properly (you can do the 'DE test' to check). Note the 'clean pressure' on your filter.
6. Begin using the cal hypo in your skimmer.
7. Backwash when the pressure is up 6 - 8 psi
Adding cal hypo this way will 'auto-balance' your pH / TA / CH. The cal hypo 'debris' will end up on your filter. If your 'balance' (Saturation Index) is low, some of the calcium carbonate will dissolve, raising pH, TA, & CH. But, if your balance is high, excess calcium in the water will deposit on the existing calcium particles in your filter.
Also, the fine calcium powder tends to adsorb oils and debris from the water, and then remove it from the pool, when you backwash. Using this method on overloaded commercial pools, I've been able to achieve some remarkable increases in clarity and water quality.
Of course, you WILL need a K-2006 kit or equivalent, so you can keep an eye on the process.
PoolDoc / Ben
Thanks, Ben. I have your PS-232 (I think) from some years ago so I can test all of the things that you mention.
For what it's worth, I have a DE, not a sand filter.
Pool: 25K gal - In-ground / Gunite ● Pump: American Products 384484 1.5 HP ● DE Filter: American Products Titan CM #57025000 48 ft^2
Valve: American Products 2.0" Side Mount Multiport 501692 ● Lights: American Products Model R-300 BC ● Cleaner: Hayward Pool Vac Ultra, 2005C
Yeah, the PS-232 was mine. I'm amazed at how long some of those have lasted!
Anyhow, you can do what I said about the cal hypo with DE, but you'll have to clean your filter more than you would otherwise. The problem is, you'll end up with really high calcium in your pool if you use cal hypo as described on the product label.
I've replaced some of the solutions, but it's fundamentally a pretty solid plastic box.
Just out of curiosity, why are you recommending that I do these things? What's the benefit?
Last edited by StevenHB; 05-10-2012 at 03:50 PM.
Pool: 25K gal - In-ground / Gunite ● Pump: American Products 384484 1.5 HP ● DE Filter: American Products Titan CM #57025000 48 ft^2
Valve: American Products 2.0" Side Mount Multiport 501692 ● Lights: American Products Model R-300 BC ● Cleaner: Hayward Pool Vac Ultra, 2005C
Which things?
You recommended that I use dichlor to add CYA (rather than more CYA into the skimmer), raise the pH and dump cal hypo into the skimmer. Is this all to build a reservoir of calcium carbonate in the filter, which will then buffer the TA, CH, and pH?
I was mistaken, my kit is a PS-233.
Pool: 25K gal - In-ground / Gunite ● Pump: American Products 384484 1.5 HP ● DE Filter: American Products Titan CM #57025000 48 ft^2
Valve: American Products 2.0" Side Mount Multiport 501692 ● Lights: American Products Model R-300 BC ● Cleaner: Hayward Pool Vac Ultra, 2005C
Sorry, Lucy, I 'splained all I'm gonna 'splain.
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