cloudy water

[PoolDoc]

Yeah, I looked at your motor label -- but that's what it is; a motor label. The pump label is on the wet end of things.

3. Add 2 gallons of plain 6% household bleach tomorrow evening; test the chlorine the following AM (Wednesday)

Up the dose to 4 gallons, and add it in the EVENING. Let us know when you get the K-2006 -- we need FC, CC, and CYA readings in particular. (And no, you can't trust your pool store tests -- a few are trustworthy, most aren't, and the only way to tell the difference is to compare their results with your K-2006 results . . . !)

[Zac851]

Sorry, I should have read more closely.. Also I thought the pump/motor were all one unit. I'll look on it tonight and see if there is any model number or label anywhere else that I didnt see and I'll add more bleach tonight and check it in the morning with my little walmart kit before I leave for work and post up.

K-2006 is ordered and on the way. I bought the cheaper 3/4oz version. Hopefully that will last me through the summer.

The water was much more clear this morning than it ever has been so far. I could see the bottom on the shallow end now.

[Watermom]

You can use a cheaper OTO/Phenol Red kit for daily testing and use the Taylor K-2006 for once a week or so testing. Unless you are clearing up a problem of some type or tweaking any chemistry levels. In those cases, you would use the K-2006 more often. The one test you quickly run out of is the CYA test. So, use those sparingly. You can always order refills for reagents you need to replace without ordering a whole new kit.

[Zac851]

Here is the only thing I can find on the pump. It's very difficult or me to make out. It looks like SP2610X13.

[PoolDoc]

1.5 HP Hayward Super Pump => SP2610x15 (Hayward site page)

Unless you've got a lot of other gear on the pool, that pump is oversize for the filter -- however, the CL200 restricts flow so much that you may NOT have excess flow, but ARE wasting a bunch of electricity. If THIS:

is the chlorinator you have, then THIS is the hole you're trying to push ALL your pool water through:


. . . NOT my favorite piece of Hayward equipment!

[Zac851]

Here's the entire system. The person who opened the pool left the valve all the way to the left in the closed position which I believe controls the drain in the bottom of the pool. The valve next to it is the skimmer I think and I'm not really sure what the two valves are on the right. I just added two more gallons of bleach a little earlier and I'll report back in the morning with results.

[Zac851]

Free chlorine - 1.5
Combined - 3.0
pH - 7.8

[CarlD]

Here's the entire system. The person who opened the pool left the valve all the way to the left in the closed position which I believe controls the drain in the bottom of the pool. The valve next to it is the skimmer I think and I'm not really sure what the two valves are on the right. I just added two more gallons of bleach a little earlier and I'll report back in the morning with results.

In the picture, the two valves to the left control water coming FROM the pool to the pump. One is undoubtedly the skimmer, the other is from the low drain(s). The two on the right are for the returns--filtered water coming back to the pool, after passing through the in-line chlorinator. The pipe coming directly out of the right side of the filter and going straight into the ground is your backwash drain line.
Hope this helps.

Carl