cloudy water

[PoolDoc]

It's confusing, but motors have separate models and info from pump (motor + wet end). An AO Smith C48L2N134C1 is a 1.5HP motor, though I don't know if it's 'uprate' or 'full rate'.

But anyhow, what we need is the PUMP model, which should be on a label somewhere on the wet end. Regardless, knowing that it's a 1.5 HP, we almost certainly know it's too big for your filter, which means your filter has probably lost sand during backwash . . . .which means it may not filter very well.

Adding sand to a S244T is a pain, unless you happen to have unions in place to make it easy. So, unless you have a "must be clear by May X" deadline, it would probably be better to test it with DE powder. Take look at the links, and see if you can find some locally -- you only need a couple of pounds to test the filter, but you can use more, to help clean up the mess:

Diatomaceous Earth Pool Filter D.E. 25 lbs



To test your filter, just add a couple of pounds (a couple of quarts) to the skimmer, and then go watch one of the returns. If you see white DE powder shoot back into the pool . . . you're going to have to work on your filter.

[Zac851]

Brushed and added the bleach (2gallons)about 6am this morning and then tested about ten minutes ago.

I came up with:
Free chlorine - 0.5
Combined chlorine - was I between the 0.6 reading and 1.0 so I guess I'll go with middle which is 0.8
pH seemed higher today. I came up with 7.8 on my cheap little tester. Ill check for that de powder tomorrow at a little pool place by my work.

Here's a pic of the label in the motor -- [RMVD - PoolDoc]

[PoolDoc]

Yeah, I looked at your motor label -- but that's what it is; a motor label. The pump label is on the wet end of things.

3. Add 2 gallons of plain 6% household bleach tomorrow evening; test the chlorine the following AM (Wednesday)

Up the dose to 4 gallons, and add it in the EVENING. Let us know when you get the K-2006 -- we need FC, CC, and CYA readings in particular. (And no, you can't trust your pool store tests -- a few are trustworthy, most aren't, and the only way to tell the difference is to compare their results with your K-2006 results . . . !)

[Zac851]

Sorry, I should have read more closely.. Also I thought the pump/motor were all one unit. I'll look on it tonight and see if there is any model number or label anywhere else that I didnt see and I'll add more bleach tonight and check it in the morning with my little walmart kit before I leave for work and post up.

K-2006 is ordered and on the way. I bought the cheaper 3/4oz version. Hopefully that will last me through the summer.

The water was much more clear this morning than it ever has been so far. I could see the bottom on the shallow end now.

[Watermom]

You can use a cheaper OTO/Phenol Red kit for daily testing and use the Taylor K-2006 for once a week or so testing. Unless you are clearing up a problem of some type or tweaking any chemistry levels. In those cases, you would use the K-2006 more often. The one test you quickly run out of is the CYA test. So, use those sparingly. You can always order refills for reagents you need to replace without ordering a whole new kit.

[Zac851]

Here is the only thing I can find on the pump. It's very difficult or me to make out. It looks like SP2610X13.

[PoolDoc]

1.5 HP Hayward Super Pump => SP2610x15 (Hayward site page)

Unless you've got a lot of other gear on the pool, that pump is oversize for the filter -- however, the CL200 restricts flow so much that you may NOT have excess flow, but ARE wasting a bunch of electricity. If THIS:

is the chlorinator you have, then THIS is the hole you're trying to push ALL your pool water through:


. . . NOT my favorite piece of Hayward equipment!