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Thread: Super II Pump Replacment Decision

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  1. #1
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    Default Super II Pump Replacment Decision

    I'm a relative newbie who's been able to keep the water nice and clean. But I have a "serious" equipment decision to make at this time and would appreciate any input. This last winter, a pipe came lose lose on top of my Hayward Super II Pump. I ran it at night because it was freezing that night (Orlando FL). When I woke up the pool was empty to the skimmer. I don't do my own plumbing, so I called a pool guy. Fixed. There were some other minor leaks that I wanted to fixed while we were at it, so he came back and replaced some parts, O-rings and stuff, all good, no extra labor cost. Just a minor leak remained. He said it was the pump gaskets/seals. I decided not to do anything because it was a very minor leak. A couple months later, I couldn't open the pump skimmer lid. It was like bolted down, and I had never had this problem before. Asked my pool guy who came back and opened it, again for free. Problem is, after he was done with that, there was now MAJOR leaking around the pump. He said it was those gaskets/seals, even though it was much stronger now. So, reluctantly, I said OK, replace all the seals/gaskets. NO IMPROVEMENT in leakage. He says it's most likely that I have a leak in the pump housing, which he just couldn't have known because 99% of the time, you replace the shaft seal, it's fixed. Of course my instinct is, he broke that when opening the lid. But I'm not pissed at him, it may not be his fault per se, just that maybe it happened when he put the pliers.

    Anyway, so the decision I'm asking about is, replace the housing or replace the entire pump? It seems like the pump is 11 years old, the motor is from 2010. The housing costs about $200, the pump depending on where I buy it is about $400 (eBay - side question, is eBay OK for this??) to $450. My pool guy would let me buy my own either housing or pump and put it in for "free", as long as pay him for the seal/gasket replacement labor. I'm leaning toward getting the entire pump replaced and then keeping the old one for parts, in particular I would have a brand-new seal kit and a relatively new motor, which I could keep in reserve and then just put in when this motor goes. It might take 5 years or more to realize the savings, but in the end, it would be a much better deal than just getting the housing now, wouldn't it? And what if the new housing didn't fix it, then what? Might as well get the whole thing - parts on their own seem way more than the whole. I would appreciate any thoughts. Thank you!!!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Super II Pump Replacment Decision

    I'd replace the whole pump . . . and go to a 2-speed! Check on what rebate you can get from your power utility -- it may be substantial.

    Take a look at this page: http://www.a1poolparts.com/-strse-Pu...Categories.bok for pricing. Allow $50 or more for shipping. A1PoolParts has *seemed* reliable; I've used them myself a couple of times, and they do have a physical location and a real store, so they are not like a lot of the Internet sites that are just an office, with 10 pool guys who can order for them.

    You'll have to add either a timer or a toggle switch:
    Intermatic T10604R Pool/Spa Control Center T106M and T104M @ Amazon
    Southwire 55189301 3/4-Inch 6-Feet ULTRA Whip-Pre-Assembled with Wires and Connectors @ Amazon
    Leviton 1282 15 Amp, 120/277 Volt, Toggle Double Throw @ Amazon

    But, you should get payback -- even without a rebate -- in a year or two, and you'll get a MUCH quieter pump, as well as BETTER filtration. (All filters work better with slow flow for more hours, rather than high flow for fewer hours.)

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Super II Pump Replacment Decision

    Thanks. The thing w/ 2-speed is that I have a solar heating system with panels on the 2nd story roof, so I wasn't going to attempt trying to figure that out at this time. My current pump is SP3010X15AZ (or at least that's what I figure the replacement needs to be - my label is totally worn out). All I really have is the label on the motor, which is 1.5 HP, SF 1.

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    Default Re: Super II Pump Replacment Decision

    Hm-mh.

    Need pictures and drawings, sent to poolforum@gmail.com.

    Does your solar system have a vacuum relief valve? If not, you can use a timer to start on high, get the air out, and then switch to low. But, you'll need to do that 2x per day, to avoid air locking the solar system.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Super II Pump Replacment Decision

    Thanks for the advice, but I don't think I'm ready to do this major upgrade. I'm very conservative. Also, I wanted to be able to keep the current motor and put it back on when the new one goes. What I would maybe like to do is get the EE version of the Super II for now. But I'm confused. What I have now is SP3010X15AZ. This is 1.5 HP, 1.0 SF. The EE line has a SP3010EEAZ model, which has 1.0 HP but 1.5 SF. Their higher rated is SP3010X15AZ, which has 1.5 HP, but 1.35 SF. There is a chart here. http://www.inyopools.com/Products/02201169001153.htm. Will the 1HP, 1.5 SF be 100% equivalent to what I have now? I've tried to understand the HP/SF connection, but (seeing that I'm conservative bordering on the scared), I am just looking for confirmation that SP3010EEAZ is the exact replacement for me and that I can use my current motor back on it when the time comes. Does this make any sense?

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    Default Re: Super II Pump Replacment Decision

    Here's the crossover data from Hayward:

    ( http://www.hayward-pool.com/prd/In-G...1_14002__I.htm )

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