Want to start out right!

[BigDave]

Sorry WM, Yes you did. I started writing my response before your's was up. I was also dealing with the family morning so not typing very fast.
In your first post this morning you mentioned that pH test won't be accurate at high Cl levels and the OP checked back on this in the "So, I should ...". I meant to point out that the situation is different than when you advised regarding pH test accuracy.

[mortimay]

Still working on the pool. It's getting better but not as quick as I'd like! I know, I know....patience! I've been working on keeping the FC levels between 12-16ppm. The pH was at 7.6 but we got some rain and it's now at 7.8. We vac'd to waste last night and now adding more water to fill so I can continue to vac. I can see the "dark" in the bottom of the pool where there are leaves, etc that I need to get out. So, I'll add more acid tonight to bring the pH back down, I'll keep the FC up and vac to get the ick out of the bottom. Anything else I should be doing?

Also, I have an empty muriatic acid bottle and one that has some acid still in it (this one was left from the previous owners over three years ago). What is the proper/safe way to dispose of these bottles?

Thank you!!

[PoolDoc]

What is the proper/safe way to dispose of these bottles?

Pour the acid in the pool (to lower your pH). Rinse all the bottles out, in the pool. Throw them in the trash.

Regarding your pool generally -- just get the gunk out ASAP, and make SURE you maintain a good high chlorine level 100% of the time.

[CarlD]

Dave and Watermom are right--don't use the 25ml sample, use the 10ml. In ten years, I think I've used the 25 ml once.

When they say .2 and .5, (and this is gonna sound crazy but it's not) every FIVE drops in the 25ml sample is 1ppm of FC, and every TWO drops in the 10ml sample is 1ppm of FC. (5drops to 1ppm means each drop is .2, 2 drops to 1ppm means each drop is .5)

Carl

[PoolDoc]

yer right. I should have noticed that. Thanks for doing so. -ben

[mortimay]

Wanted to send a huge THANK YOU to everyone here at the pool forum. I got my pool cleared in 6 days this year, compared to 8+ weeks last year. You guys ROCK!

Last night I added 2 gal 12.5% bleach and then checked, the number was FC 18ppm and the pH was 7.6. This morning at 8:00am I checked the chlorine and it was 12ppm. I just checked again at 11:00 and here are all my numbers:

FC 6ppm
CC 0
Alk 180ppm
pH 7.8

We added well water last night and also got some rain. Today has been overcast so no direct sunlight on the pool. I know I'm still fighting stuff. Due to some medical issues, I haven't been able to do much with the pool for the last week. The pool had a slight green to it on Friday. I've been shocking again and the water is now crystal clear, but I'm not holding chlorine overnight. Vacuumed to waste the ick on the bottom of the pool. I'll be able to keep up with it this week, and I'm hoping to have it swimable this weekend. What's my next step?

[PoolDoc]

1. Maintain chlorine levels.
2. Lower your pH to 74 - 7.6
3. Get some stabilizer in your pool.

Do you have access to a nearby Sams Club? If so, go buy their PoolBrand bags of dichlor shock. Using dichlor will add BOTH chlorine and stabilizer . . . and you need both. It will also tend to lower pH and ultimately, alkalinity, and you need that, too.

If you don't have access to Sams, you should EITHER

+ Buy this dichlor from Amazon:

Kem-Tek Dichlor 22 lbs

*OR*

+ Shop around for 15 - 25 lbs locally . . . BUT YOU HAVE TO BE A CHEMICAL LABEL INSPECTOR, to make sure you are NOT getting the blended and diluted goop that Walmart, Costco and most others are selling. Some of it has fairly harmless stuff that allows them to offer "enhanced" shock that's cheaper to make but they can sell for more, but some of it adds copper to your pool!

By the way, if you order form Amazon, you can get the Amazon free Prime trial:

Amazon Prime

and get free 2-day shipping for a month. But, if you don't want to keep it, REMEMBER TO CANCEL IT before the month is up. Personally, I'm a late shopper, so it saves me a bundle at Xmas.

[mortimay]

Went out to work on the pool this morning. It's clear but has a green tint to it. I have added well water the last couple of days, but water was greenish before.

Cl 5.5
pH 7.8
Alk 220
CYA lower than 30 but there is some CYA (when tested at 30 the water was cloudy but could still see the dot)

Adding more CYA now. What can I do to get rid of the green tint?

[PoolDoc]

If you've got dichlor, don't add CYA -- add dichlor! For each 1 ppm of FC with dichlor, you'll get 0.9 ppm stabilizer.

But, with that Alk, lower your pH to 7.0 - 7.2. Muriatic acid is best -- see the linked safety page in my signature.

[mortimay]

Is there a way to lower the alkalinity?