Want to start out right!

[mortimay]

Ok, I redid the chlorine test, with almost the same results. I'm just learning to use this kit, maybe I'm not doing it correctly? Here's what I did step by step.

I used the 2ppm 25mL sample test.
Put is the two scoops and sample turned pink.
took 30 drops of 871 to turn the sample clear. I read this as 30x2 = 60ppm
added 5 drops of 003 and sample turned pink.
took 7 drops of 871 to turn the sample clear. I read this a 7x2 = 14ppm

Am I doing this correctly? Reading the results correctly?

So, I should go ahead and lower the pH and then what? Just wait until the chlorine level comes down? What should I do in the interim? Vacuum, sweep?

Thanks!

[Watermom]

You are DOING the test correctly but just not INTERPRETING the results properly. Since you are using the 25ml sample, you multiply the number of drops by 0.2 and not 2. So, 30 drops of 0871 would give you a FC reading of 6ppm. Then, after the addition of the 003, 7 drops of the 0871 would give you a CC reading of 1.4ppm.

Go ahead and work to lower the pH. Continue keeping the chlorine at shock level which for your pool with no CYA is 10-12ppm. FYI --- in a 16K pool, each quart of 12.5% liquid chlorine will add about 2ppm of chlorine. Use that to help you figure out how much to add.

Go back and reread Ben's post above and answer any questions that he asked.

By the way --- to save your reagents, just use a 10ml water sample instead of the 25ml sample. Knowing an accurate result within 0.5ppm is adequate. No need to get within 0.2 and it will save your reagents.

If there is debris on the bottom of the pool that you can vac out, do so. Brush the floor and walls daily. Watch your filter pressure and backwash when it rises 8-10psi over clean filter pressure.

[BigDave]

The multiplier for the 25ml sample test is 0.2 and 0.5 for the 10ml sample. So... you have 6 ppm FC and 1.4 ppm CC. You may want to use the 10ml sample as you'll go through your reagent pretty fast using the 25ml.
You can lower your pH as Watermom described - your pH test is accurate with FC of 6.
You'll need to get your FC up to shock level as per Ben's Best Guess Chart and keep it there until you have almost no CC and you have less than 1ppm FC loss overnight.

[Watermom]

The multiplier for the 25ml sample test is 0.2 and 0.5 for the 10ml sample. So... you have 6 ppm FC and 1.4 ppm CC. You may want to use the 10ml sample as you'll go through your reagent pretty fast using the 25ml.
You can lower your pH as Watermom described - your pH test is accurate with FC of 6.
You'll need to get your FC up to shock level as per Ben's Best Guess Chart and keep it there until you have almost no CC and you have less than 1ppm FC loss overnight.

Uh, Dave ........... hadn't I already told the OP these very things in my last two posts?

[BigDave]

Sorry WM, Yes you did. I started writing my response before your's was up. I was also dealing with the family morning so not typing very fast.
In your first post this morning you mentioned that pH test won't be accurate at high Cl levels and the OP checked back on this in the "So, I should ...". I meant to point out that the situation is different than when you advised regarding pH test accuracy.

[mortimay]

Still working on the pool. It's getting better but not as quick as I'd like! I know, I know....patience! I've been working on keeping the FC levels between 12-16ppm. The pH was at 7.6 but we got some rain and it's now at 7.8. We vac'd to waste last night and now adding more water to fill so I can continue to vac. I can see the "dark" in the bottom of the pool where there are leaves, etc that I need to get out. So, I'll add more acid tonight to bring the pH back down, I'll keep the FC up and vac to get the ick out of the bottom. Anything else I should be doing?

Also, I have an empty muriatic acid bottle and one that has some acid still in it (this one was left from the previous owners over three years ago). What is the proper/safe way to dispose of these bottles?

Thank you!!

[PoolDoc]

What is the proper/safe way to dispose of these bottles?

Pour the acid in the pool (to lower your pH). Rinse all the bottles out, in the pool. Throw them in the trash.

Regarding your pool generally -- just get the gunk out ASAP, and make SURE you maintain a good high chlorine level 100% of the time.

[CarlD]

Dave and Watermom are right--don't use the 25ml sample, use the 10ml. In ten years, I think I've used the 25 ml once.

When they say .2 and .5, (and this is gonna sound crazy but it's not) every FIVE drops in the 25ml sample is 1ppm of FC, and every TWO drops in the 10ml sample is 1ppm of FC. (5drops to 1ppm means each drop is .2, 2 drops to 1ppm means each drop is .5)

Carl

[mortimay]

Went out to work on the pool this morning. It's clear but has a green tint to it. I have added well water the last couple of days, but water was greenish before.

Cl 5.5
pH 7.8
Alk 220
CYA lower than 30 but there is some CYA (when tested at 30 the water was cloudy but could still see the dot)

Adding more CYA now. What can I do to get rid of the green tint?

[PoolDoc]

If you've got dichlor, don't add CYA -- add dichlor! For each 1 ppm of FC with dichlor, you'll get 0.9 ppm stabilizer.

But, with that Alk, lower your pH to 7.0 - 7.2. Muriatic acid is best -- see the linked safety page in my signature.