Want to start out right!

[PoolDoc]

Hi Anji;

1. If you can, verify that you have a full level of sand in your filter. You can do the DE test to see (1 quart DE powder in the skimmer => if it shoots back into the pool, your filter needs repair -- probably more sand.)
2. Start adding 3 gallons of plain 6% bleach every evening. Get a cheap OTO (yellow drops) kit. Add 3 more gallons the following evening, if the chlorine level is below 5 ppm. Repeat, and so on.
3. Once the water has turned cloudy blue or gray, add 3 more gallons, and brush the bottom. If it turns green (from algae sludge) add 3 MORE gallons.
4. Filter 24/7
5. Use the cheap kit to check pH. If it's below 7.0, add borax -- 1 box at a time, added SLOWLY to the skimmer with the pump running -- wait 4 hours and retest. Continue till the pH is 7.4 or so.
6. If the pH is above 8.0, read the muriatic acid page, buy a gallon of acid, and add it 1/2 gallon at at a time into the pool, near a return. Wait 4 hours, retest, and repeat as needed till the pH is 7.6 or so.
7. Once you get the K2006, tell us what the test results are, and what your pool looks like.

[mortimay]

My Taylor 2006 kit came so we started tackling the pool. We got the pump going and did a little vacuuming to waste since with all the rain we got over the weekend we needed to lower to water level. Tested the pool at 8:00pm last night with the following results:

Chl 0
pH 8.0
Alk 180ppm (actually turned a little pink at 170ppm but full on red at 180ppm)
CYA 0

Hubby dumped in 3 gal of 12.5%. He was going to dump several gallons in because the last time we had the pool store open for use they just dumped in about 30 gallons of their chlorine and said it should clear up in a few days. It didn't! I stopped him at three.

Here are the results taken this morning at 8:30am:

FC 78ppm
Chl 14ppm
pH 8
Alk 180ppm (actually turned a little pink at 170ppm but full on red at 180ppm)
CYA (didn't redo this test)

The pool isn't a dark green anymore, it's light green but still swampy. Can't see but about 6 inches down. Where do I go from here?

Thanks!
Anji

[Watermom]

I think you might want to try that chlorine test again. FC + CC = TC. 3 gallons of 12.5% chlorine in a 16K pool should add around 23ppm of chlorine. (Which, by the way is too high for a pool with no CYA.) Take a look at the Best Guess Chlorine Chart in my signature below for the correlation between CYA and chlorine levels.

Your pH is too high. (when your chlorine is above 15ppm, your pH test is inaccurate but since your first set of numbers listed pH at 8 when your chlorine was 0, then that one should be accurate. You'll want to lower it to between 7.4-7.6 with some muriatic acid. Take a look at the following guide: Using Muriatic Acid Safely

Do you know what your CYA reading was when you closed the pool last fall?

[mortimay]

Ok, I redid the chlorine test, with almost the same results. I'm just learning to use this kit, maybe I'm not doing it correctly? Here's what I did step by step.

I used the 2ppm 25mL sample test.
Put is the two scoops and sample turned pink.
took 30 drops of 871 to turn the sample clear. I read this as 30x2 = 60ppm
added 5 drops of 003 and sample turned pink.
took 7 drops of 871 to turn the sample clear. I read this a 7x2 = 14ppm

Am I doing this correctly? Reading the results correctly?

So, I should go ahead and lower the pH and then what? Just wait until the chlorine level comes down? What should I do in the interim? Vacuum, sweep?

Thanks!

[Watermom]

You are DOING the test correctly but just not INTERPRETING the results properly. Since you are using the 25ml sample, you multiply the number of drops by 0.2 and not 2. So, 30 drops of 0871 would give you a FC reading of 6ppm. Then, after the addition of the 003, 7 drops of the 0871 would give you a CC reading of 1.4ppm.

Go ahead and work to lower the pH. Continue keeping the chlorine at shock level which for your pool with no CYA is 10-12ppm. FYI --- in a 16K pool, each quart of 12.5% liquid chlorine will add about 2ppm of chlorine. Use that to help you figure out how much to add.

Go back and reread Ben's post above and answer any questions that he asked.

By the way --- to save your reagents, just use a 10ml water sample instead of the 25ml sample. Knowing an accurate result within 0.5ppm is adequate. No need to get within 0.2 and it will save your reagents.

If there is debris on the bottom of the pool that you can vac out, do so. Brush the floor and walls daily. Watch your filter pressure and backwash when it rises 8-10psi over clean filter pressure.

[BigDave]

The multiplier for the 25ml sample test is 0.2 and 0.5 for the 10ml sample. So... you have 6 ppm FC and 1.4 ppm CC. You may want to use the 10ml sample as you'll go through your reagent pretty fast using the 25ml.
You can lower your pH as Watermom described - your pH test is accurate with FC of 6.
You'll need to get your FC up to shock level as per Ben's Best Guess Chart and keep it there until you have almost no CC and you have less than 1ppm FC loss overnight.

[Watermom]

The multiplier for the 25ml sample test is 0.2 and 0.5 for the 10ml sample. So... you have 6 ppm FC and 1.4 ppm CC. You may want to use the 10ml sample as you'll go through your reagent pretty fast using the 25ml.
You can lower your pH as Watermom described - your pH test is accurate with FC of 6.
You'll need to get your FC up to shock level as per Ben's Best Guess Chart and keep it there until you have almost no CC and you have less than 1ppm FC loss overnight.

Uh, Dave ........... hadn't I already told the OP these very things in my last two posts?

[BigDave]

Sorry WM, Yes you did. I started writing my response before your's was up. I was also dealing with the family morning so not typing very fast.
In your first post this morning you mentioned that pH test won't be accurate at high Cl levels and the OP checked back on this in the "So, I should ...". I meant to point out that the situation is different than when you advised regarding pH test accuracy.