new salt chlorinator system

[waterbear]

After a steep learning curve, I settled on a routine that has worked for me for the past several seasons. It pretty much includes the following:

FC at 5 (as mentioned, controlled using an Aquarite SWCG)
TA 80-100 (I use bicarb to raise when it gets low)

If you drop the TA down to 70 or even 60 you will have a slower pH rise since there will be less outgassing of CO2, the primary cause of pH rise in most pools (excluding curing plaster).

PH 7.5-7.8 (I add muriatic acid once it hits 7.8; PH has never been too low, so I've never had to add anything to raise it)

Wait for the pH to climb above 7.8. If you are testing it regularly you will see when this happens before it goes too high. Borate tends to stabilize the pH at 7.7 to 7.8 for an extended period of time compared to pools without borate.

Borates 40-50
CYA 70-80

In terms of regular maintenance, besides testing and adjusting the above as needed, each week I add a maintenance dose (8oz) of Polyquat 60 and a maintenance dose of Jack's Magic Purple Stuff (12oz; I use to have problems with staining before using this. I was told the staining was a side effect of the SWCG. Since using it, I've not had any staining problems.). I shock every 2 weeks (or after a big storm) using calcium hypochlorite (68%). Also, I run the automatic vacuum frequently to keep the pool clean (every couple days on average).

I'm not sure if I'm overdoing things and wasting money by using both Poly60 and borates. I started using them at about the same time (I was fed up with the liner frequently getting slick with aglae so decided to hit it with both guns!) so I'm not sure if just using one would give me the same algae control.

I would appreciate your input on my routine and if you have any suggestions that may save me time and money.

Thanks again.

I would use sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine or bleach) instead of the cal hypo. I assume you are not testing your CH because it is a vinyl pool. This is NOT a good idea with a SWCG since scaling of the cell is a real worry. Just because you don't NEED calcium added if it is low does not mean you do not need to know what the level is so you can avoid possibly scaling conditions.

[PoolDoc]

Just because you don't NEED calcium added if it is low does not mean you do not need to know what the level is so you can avoid possibly scaling conditions.

Good reminder!

[JimK]

Jim, I had to go look up some of your IP addresses, to find out approximately where you are. Virginia is much more like Tennessee or N. Georgia, then like California . . . and I'm pretty sure we have more of a problem with algae than folks in S. California or Arizona.

Yes, I'm on the coast, lots of water around here and lots of humidity during the summer!

In your case, if I were you, I'd experiment with dropping the polyquat rather than the borates. Unless you are backwashing a LOT, you shouldn't be having to add borates much. One caution: polyquat is a pretty effective clarifier, so if that function is affecting your pool and you lose clarity you might try substituting a small dose of a conventional clarifier.

Once up and running, I usually only have to backwash my DE filter once or twice the entire season (May-October). The water has always stayed crystal clear, even before I started using the polyquat, so perhaps losing clarity may not be an issue? It's not very often I have to add borates. I may try stopping the polyquat applications and see what happens. That said, I've already purchased enough polyquat to last the entire season, so I may just continue with it this season and try doing without next season (unless curiosity gets the best of me and I don't want to wait that long...LOL).

You might want to raise the borate level a bit. I still have no hard data, but it seems that 50 ppm may be the low end of the range for effective algae-stasis.

Best wishes!

Can you recommend a more effective range? BTW, if it makes a difference, the borate I'm using is BioGuard's "Optimizer" (I'm sure it cost more per pound, but a 20lb bucket lasts me a long time, so my cost per season is low). The label on the bucket recommends keeping the level at least 35, I shoot for 50 because this was recommended by someone I trust. If you need it, I can check the container tomorrow and see what the chemical name is for "Optimizer" (it's a big long name that I don't remember).

I would use sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine or bleach) instead of the cal hypo. I assume you are not testing your CH because it is a vinyl pool. This is NOT a good idea with a SWCG since scaling of the cell is a real worry. Just because you don't NEED calcium added if it is low does not mean you do not need to know what the level is so you can avoid possibly scaling conditions.

Thanks for the tips on TA levels and PH.

Actually, I do have CH checked a couple times a year. I just checked my records going a couple years back and the level seems to always be in the 200-250 range. I've never experienced scaling on the salt cell. Perhaps we get enough rain here in SE VA to keep CH levels in check? Speaking of CH levels, the paperwork that came with my pool states that CH is necessary to keep the liner from becoming brittle. Is this true or BS?

After reading the posts and recommendations in this forum, I've considered using plain bleach, but with all the uncertainties about it's actual strength (how long has that jug been sitting on the shelf or in a warehouse?), keeping a bunch of jugs on hand or making frequent trips to the store (I don't like shopping), using cal hypo just seems much more convenient to use (I just have to buy it once at the beginning of the season). Since my CH level seems to stay in check, do you think it's OK to keep using cal hypo?

PS - I forgot to mention when describing my routine that I try to always test my water at about the same time in the evening (about 6pm). I figure this would give me a FC reading at its lowest point during the day. I take the sample from the deep end about 18" below the surface and away from any returns.