Green hue in clear water...

[Sparkle]

Pool store had my husband put in algicide as soon as we took off the cover. I have no idea what kind. He just did what he was told and threw out the bottle and he doesn't remember. Probably the same kind they had us put in last year...no issues last year??

Pool is darker blue finish...not white.

I asked the pool store about testing for metals and they said they did and it's fine. However, the print-out showed cooper and iron as "not run"???

Yes on skimmer pill...same kind as last year with no issues. You do mean the thing that helps prevent water loss from evaporation, right?

No heater, no ionizer, water comes from city, some of original water also came from spring...long story, but pool companies idea to speed up install. We didn't have any trouble then, nor last year, which was our first full season. Any water added since then and the majority of ariginal water is city water.

I did get the new tube and my CYA reading was the same as pool store at 55 ppm. This was yesterday and I suppose it's possible that it's gone up a bit more...had expected it to increase to 70 with the amount I added (added second 4 lbs on Wednesday).

Had trouble finding 2 boxes of Borax, but finally found a second box. We will be working on the pool for the rest of the day now that we are back home!

Thanks again for all of your help! Should I wait the same 2 hours to test the salt again or should I be more patient with this stuff?

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The ideal ppm for FC in the aqua rite book is 1.0-3.0. Is there a reason you suggest keeping it at 4.0?

I'm trying to learn and absorb everything each of you is teaching me and it helps when I understand the reasons behind your logic. I've been passing info on the my husband, but he doesn't really want to know how it works. He just wants it fixed...lol

[PoolDoc]

+ The fact that you didn't have problems, doesn't mean you don't have metals -- you can have metals, and not have problems. Problems results from metals AND other conditions, which will eventually occur, but not necessarily right away.

+ There are different kinds of skimmer pills; tell me EXACTLY what your is called.

+ Yeah, if you aren't in a city where there are already a lot of folks using the BBB method, Walmart's stocking computer doesn't know to ramp up supply in spring! That is one of the benefits of buying at Walmart -- their inventory management system is one of the wonders of the world, and if you buy borax there regularly, their stock will begin to reflect it. (If you can persuade friends with pools to do the same, even better!)

+ The Best Guess page explains quite a bit about why, and about the relationship between CYA and chlorine levels. If you want to know more, follow the other links in my signature, as well. I usually don't suggest that to people new to the forum -- they can find it sort of overwhelming; it's easier to get used to, gradually. If you REALLY want to dig into, take a look at the China Shop section!

[Sparkle]

It's a yellow ball called SolarPill.

Also, I have some of this "No Mor Muriatic Acid" powder that the pool store finally sold me. Supposedly, it's "great for salt water systems!". Anyway, I'm out of muriatic acid right now and wondered if I can dissolve it to try one more soak of our salt cell. The instructions say 2.5 lbs = 1 gal of muriatic acid. If this will work, I think I can use 1 lb as an equivalency to 0.4 gals of muriatic acid and add at least 1.6 gals of water to the bucket. Won't try unless you guys give me the go-ahead. Again, the pool store suggested I use this product, but that was at the same time they said to use vinegar. When I asked how much to use, I was told, "Oh, one or two capfuls will be fine in a 5 gal bucket." I can't find any logic in that math.

What are your thoughts?