Pre-Filter on a Refill?

[aylad]

It wouldn't hurt to test all three--except you don't need to waste the CYA reagent on any of the faucet or house water, because there won't be any in there. It's nice to know what the numbers are on your fill water.

We're here to help folks who are new at this--so don't be shy if someone posts something that you don't understand--ask, ask, ask!

Janet

[Rottwieler]

Here is what I could find from my water company:
(http://www.gwresources.com/resources...ulfer_2010.pdf)

Substance......... MCLG or....MCL, TT or.....Lowest.....Highest.....Compliance
........................MRDLG......MRDL........... ..Level........Level........Achieved
Chlorine
[as Cl2] (ppm).... 4 ............ 4 ................. 0.2 ......... 2.6 ............ Yes
Haloacetic Acids
[HAA5] (ppb) .... NA .......... 60 ................ NA .......... 2.2 ............ Yes
Total Trihalomethanes
[TTHM’s] (ppb) . NA .......... 80 ................ NA .......... 14 ............. Yes

Inorganic Chemicals
Arsenic (ppb)
2008 Data ......... 0 ............ 10 ................ NA .......... 5.0 ............ Yes
Barium (ppm)
2007 Data ......... 2 ............ 2 .................. NA ......... 0.18 ............ Yes
Chromium (ppb)
2007 Data ....... 100 ......... 100 ................ NA .......... 28 .............. Yes
Fluoride (ppm)
2007 Data ......... 4 ............ 4 .................. NA .......... 1.2 ............. Yes
Nitrate (ppm)
[Nitrogen] ........ 10 .......... 10 .................. 5.8 ......... 6.8 ............. Yes
Selenium (ppb)
2007 Data ....... 50 ........... 50 .................. NA .......... 3.5 ............. Yes

Microbial Organisms
Total Coliform .. 0 ............. 1 ................... NA ........... 0 ............... Yes

Radionuclides
Alpha Emitters (pCi/L)
[2002 Data] ..... 0 ............ 15 ................... NA .......... 2.9 .............. Yes

Lead and Copper
Copper– less than 0.022 ppm
Lead — less than 3.8 ppb

Test kit should be here tomorrow.

[PoolDoc]

Not showing anything there that needs to be pre-filtered.

Of course, if the distance from the plant is great, and the distribution is old and iron . . . that's a different matter.

You can do the white bucket test:

1. 5 gallon CLEAN white plastic bucket
2. 4 gallons of tap water
3. 1/8 cup of bleach
4. 1/8 cup of baking soda
5. Mix, cover, wait 24 - 48 hours
6. If there's colored sediment on the bottom of the bucket, you might want to pre-filter

.

Use Clorox bleach for this test; some cheaper bleaches might have small amounts of iron.

[Rottwieler]

Thanks Doc.
Been developing a new problem over the past week. Actually noticed it a couple of weeks ago after a bad dust storm that coated the bottom of the pool with dirt. The vacuum seemed to not be getting everything and I thought it was just the handy son not brushing very well, but then I brushed good and the dirty looking sediment doesn't come off. I haven't been adding ANY chemicals to the pool on anticipation of doing the drain and refill, but now I'm not sure when I will be able to do it. Might be several weeks. Anyway, over the past few days what was just dirty looking bottom corners has grown to cover most of the floor and lower walls... Any ideas?
Also, we have cartridge filters - 4 or 5 in the big compression tank - each one is about 3' or 3.5' long and about 6" around. We run the pump about 8 hours a day. Should we run the pump more, and how often should we clean the filters? Thanks. Sam

[Anonymous [GDPR] European in Spain]

I'll let the experts tell you more, but get some bleach/chlorine in there quick.

[PoolDoc]

It could be iron.

Go to Walmart, and get a bottle of Vitamin C tablets - small one is fine; larger TABLETS are better -- and a container of Iron Out (detergent section). Get some snack or sandwich baggies, if you don't have any.

1. Place a couple of tablets on a stained spot.

2. Put a couple of tablespoons of Iron out in a snack baggie, along with a couple of tablespoons of water. Force all the air out, and seal the baggie. (Do NOT suck on the baggie, to get the air out!!)

3. Get into the pool, with the baggie and an old cotton rag or towel. Carefully place the baggie on a stained spot, and then open it so the Iron Out is released. Cover with the towel to protect it from currents.

4. Check back in an hour, and see if the stains are affected.

5. While you're waiting, check the interior of your toilet tanks -- see if they are stained, and if so, what color.

Are you running the bucket test? Do you have a K-2006 on order?

[Rottwieler]

The white bottom portion of the chlorine tab floater is stained brown like rust. Toilet tanks look good.
You think maybe a recent dust storm blew some iron dust into the pool?
I got the test kit yesterday. Been trying to wade through the manual before wasting a bunch of reagent doing tests wrong.
I've also been trying to figure out exactly how much water my pool holds. We had been running on estimates of around 18k, but I can't find any documentation to confirm that and I'm thinking it might be much less. It's shaped sort of like an acoustic guitar body and varies between 3' and 5'6" + a broad step and a bench. I measure it at 28' x 17' at its longest and widest, but that doesn't help me much. I'm going to take more measurements and graph it. maybe I can get a good number that way.
I found a couple of recent water analysis reports from the pool store I'll share for the time being.
Here's what they're saying: FAC = 0, TAC = 0, CYA = 100, TA = 90, pH = 7.6, TDS = 2501, Pho = 100.
Full weekend scheduled. Hope to get bucket test going and do tests on the staining. Also hope to figure out how much water is in there and how to use the test kit.
I put in a couple of bags of shock and the water is looking very good.
I appreciate your help.
Sam

[PoolDoc]

You're welcome.

If you haven't ordered a K2006 yet, you might want to wait till Tuesday or Wednesday to do so. Stocks are low, and I've noticed that orders at Amazon are getting kicked over to high priced suppliers, as the regular ones are out of stock.