Pool Opening Problems.

[PoolDoc]

Sorry, here are the pictures:

[PoolDoc]

I'm trying to work out a way to offer re-design help to members, but we're not there yet.

Right now, what I'd recommend is get to leave the plumbing alone, for the most part, but get the timer and sand taken care of. You just need 1 more union (pressure side of multi-port, near filter) in order to lift the multi-port valve. Having the messed up back wash, makes it easy for now.

You can install this check valve:

King Brothers Inc. KC-1500-S 1-1/2-Inch Slip PVC Schedule 40 Spring Check Valve, Gray @ Amazon

to assure positive pressure at the suction inlet of the Polaris booster. If you do, you'll need to remove the Rainbow feeder and check valve -- if that's the old 10# spring valve, it's a VERY significant energy waster! If it's a newer model with a light spring, then you won't need the check from Amazon, since the Rainbow valve will assure positive pressure at the Polaris suction.

[TheGoose]

The "housing" is new....I replaced it ~2005. The "body" of the new one cracked. I still had the original and swapped out the "new" column/body part for the original. The actual part that is in-line was replaced about '05 or so.

The "foam" in the top picture is from the SWCG when I run it higher. It definitely makes an abundance of bubbles. I have not been using it as of late per the advice on this forum.

I'm keeping the pump off tonight to see if anything will settle out of the water.

The water is much better than what you see in that picture. It is more of a whitish/blue tint now, not green BTW.

[TheGoose]

4-25 #'s
FC = 9
CC = 1.0
pH = 7.4 (added borax)
TA = 90
CH = 225
CYA = 60

Water clarity slightly better.

I ordered the dual speed timer BTW.

[TheGoose]

Today's numbers:

FC = ~5 with OTO.
pH = 7.5 I've been bringing pH up slowly.

I didn't test for anything else since those numbers don't seem to fluctuate much. I test them about 1-2 times per week.

Pool water is SLOWLY getting clear. I can just barely see the bottom of the pool in the shallow end. Water color itself looks great. The pool seems to be holding chlorine, I'm not adding much if any. I did add some water today so I'll need to re-check the numbers probably tomorrow.

Two speed timers installed and running great. the motor is really quiet on low speed.

[TheGoose]

Today's numbers-

FC = ~5 as measured with OTO.
pH - 7.2-7.4

I went swimming today. The water has a very nice color to it, all the other chemistry is in good shape...but the water is just CLOUDY.

After donning a mask and looking around underwater I am thoroughly convinced that my sand filter has failed in some way. Either the sand has been backwashed out or the valve is leaking by somewhere. There is just a lot of particles in the water. Stuff that is visible to the eye, not just real small stuff. The pump has been running 24/7 and on low since last week. I'm gonna have to take the top off again and see what the sand level is.

Going by the "grocery store" philosphy what kind of sand do I need? I usually buy the pool store stuff but I'm pretty sure that I can get some from the lumberyard that will do the trick.

By the way I used the DE trick and didn't see any results. I also did not notice any DE blowing back into the pool, so I'm at a loss on what to do next. I'm ready to go back to full on DE, I consider the sand filter experiment failed. Unless I can resolve the "problem" of sand being backwashed out.

[Watermom]

Only use filter sand. You probably will have to get it at a pool store, not the lumberyard. I'm gonna ask Ben to take a look at this thread again since it has been awhile. Maybe he can see something else to try.