Pool Opening Problems.

[TheGoose]

Numbers from 4-22

FC = 8.0
CC = 1.0-1.5 both measured with .5 drops
pH = 7.0-7.1....might have dropped a hair. Need to get some mule team.
TA = 90

CYA not measured.
CH not measured.

Water still cloudy, filter still running 24-7.

I read somewhere that my CH could be causing the cloudiness. Something about the "Saturation Index" or something like that.

I have never measured the CH as being super high, most of my tests show it about 200, but I read that you can have false results. I have noticed that the colors change kinda funny.

Any opinions on the CH causing me problems? I will measure again tonight. I have been using cal hypo with bleach to shock the pool, but I felt that since my CH numbers were not high I was OK. I am measuring CH about once a week.

Water color is whitish blue. Just murky. I am strongly considering going back to DE, this sand filter just isn't doing a good job IMO.

[PoolDoc]

Hi Goose;

-- I edited your posts some for spacing and such so I could read through them more easily --

CH doesn't cause cloudiness unless you precipitate calcium carbonate, usually by dumping in cal hypo, bicarb, or pH up. It doesn't look like you've done so, I don't really suspect that suspended CaCO3 is the issue.

Two suggestions:

1. If you haven't already, check your filter. It sounds like your Whisperflo *may* have been big enough (25psi starting pressure!!??) to blow sand out of the filter during backwash. If you have lost sand, that will DEFINITELY cause 'failure to filter'.

2. Go ahead and get that pump running on 2-speed. Either get a timer or a DPDT motor rated toggle switch. Both the correct timer, and the correct toggle are often hard to find locally, but Amazon has them:

Intermatic T10604R Pool/Spa Control Center T106M and T104M @ Amazon
Southwire 55189301 3/4-Inch 6-Feet ULTRA Whip-Pre-Assembled with Wires and Connectors @ Amazon
Leviton 1282 15 Amp, 120/277 Volt, Toggle Double Throw @ Amazon

You'll need EITHER the timer OR the toggle, but not both. Boxes are available locally. You'll need TWO of the whips (or the local equivalent), one from your panel to the toggle/timer, and one from the toggle/timer to the pump. Your electrician will need to add a FOURTH wire to the whip that goes to the pump, to accommodate the switching. Do NOT let your electrician use metallic flex; do mandate a WIRED ground to the pump (no conduit grounds!!) no matter what the National Electric Code allows.

Also, you DO need the dual timer, because it has to be set up to START on high, and THEN switch to low. The only way to use a single timer, is if you plan to run the pump 24/7 on EITHER low or high. Even then, the dual timer is safer, since you can restart it 2x daily, to make SURE that it's primed. Pumps can lose prime during a power outage, and then start back on low, allowing the pump to run dry when it fails to prime.

Running on low speed will GREATLY increase your filter's ability to remove fine particles.

[TheGoose]

Thanks for your response. I suspect that I need to add sand, but I hate to take everything apart. It's a PITA. I really should have put some unions in last time but I didn't.

Did you see the pics I sent you a few days ago? Do you have any concerns on my set-up? I realize my back-wash line is kinda open ended. I had another pipe that ran down and away from the filter but the kids "misplaced" it for me. I will get another up ASAP and I'm also gonna install a throttle valve.

The starting pressure is normally about ~18-20 psi. I've seen it get as high as 30. I usually backwash about 28. Right now my filter is running about ~25 psi. I would have already backwashed but I'm afraid I'm losing sand everytime and also I heard that a "plugged" filter actually filters better. Also I can tell by looking at my return jets that there is plenty of flow. When the filter gets plugged you can't see the surface ripple.

Thanks for the advice on the wiring. I do all my own wiring and I do have a dedicated ground to the pump. I will make sure that the switch is grounded also. I might just get the timer instead.

[PoolDoc]

Sorry, here are the pictures:

[PoolDoc]

I'm trying to work out a way to offer re-design help to members, but we're not there yet.

Right now, what I'd recommend is get to leave the plumbing alone, for the most part, but get the timer and sand taken care of. You just need 1 more union (pressure side of multi-port, near filter) in order to lift the multi-port valve. Having the messed up back wash, makes it easy for now.

You can install this check valve:

King Brothers Inc. KC-1500-S 1-1/2-Inch Slip PVC Schedule 40 Spring Check Valve, Gray @ Amazon

to assure positive pressure at the suction inlet of the Polaris booster. If you do, you'll need to remove the Rainbow feeder and check valve -- if that's the old 10# spring valve, it's a VERY significant energy waster! If it's a newer model with a light spring, then you won't need the check from Amazon, since the Rainbow valve will assure positive pressure at the Polaris suction.

[TheGoose]

The "housing" is new....I replaced it ~2005. The "body" of the new one cracked. I still had the original and swapped out the "new" column/body part for the original. The actual part that is in-line was replaced about '05 or so.

The "foam" in the top picture is from the SWCG when I run it higher. It definitely makes an abundance of bubbles. I have not been using it as of late per the advice on this forum.

I'm keeping the pump off tonight to see if anything will settle out of the water.

The water is much better than what you see in that picture. It is more of a whitish/blue tint now, not green BTW.

[TheGoose]

4-25 #'s
FC = 9
CC = 1.0
pH = 7.4 (added borax)
TA = 90
CH = 225
CYA = 60

Water clarity slightly better.

I ordered the dual speed timer BTW.